Through Others’ Eyes

Posted on by Laughingnomad

In the hotel in Paris at breakfast one morning. I struck up a conversation with a woman that wasn’t speaking French to the waiter and she had avoided talking to me. I guessed that she might be English or Scandinavian and most Sacandinavians speak English. It turned out she was from Poland but knew English very well. She had avoided talking to me because she thought I was French. When I started talking to her and finally told her I was from the states, she said “no wonder your English accent is so good-I thought you were French!”

She was on her way to a business meeting in Lancaster PA. In her slender 30’s she had short cropped blond hair and was wearing a yellow sweater and tan slacks. She said that on a trip to NY several years ago, she was struck by how “big” many American were and she made clear that she meant fat. She guessed that it was because they didn’t get enough “motion.” It is interesting to see ourselves through other’s eyes. I tried to explain “jet lag” the lag part being the most difficult.

Later, an English woman in the hotel in Bayonne said that when she had visited NY several years ago she was shocked at how people, who were dressed up in suits and other nice clothing, were wearing ugly sneakers and walking so fast down the street. We tried to tell her we didn’t find “sneakers” ugly and that when I worked I wore nice shoes to work and carried my tennis shoes in a bag that I then used when walking to/from the car. But she said there were “nice” comfortable shoes you could wear out on the street and she held up her foot whereupon there was a nice black walking shoe.

Bayonne & Biarritz

Posted on by Laughingnomad

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Bayonne is a beautiful Basque town in the south of France. I would not be surprised if the movie “Chocolat” was made here. We were told that Bayonne had almost a hundred chocolate shops; when the Jews were trying to avoid the Pogroms they made a living by making chocolate candy.

Upon inquiring about accessing the internet in my room, the young girl at the front desk in my hotel said vehemently “I __ate the internet!” I asked why and she said because it was difficult and besides that it was new! I told her about my troubles finding the internet in Paris. She laughed; she understood perfectly, she said! Later, I walked into a computer education store that was run by a man whose first language was Senegalese but who had married and had been living in France 20 years. I told him all about all my internet experiences and he laughed. “Yes, France is a little slow with the internet” he says.

Biarritz, on the Pacific coast, is the surfing capital of Europe…young kids with surf boards and kayaks covering the beaches.

Paris

Posted on by Laughingnomad

From the Louvre to the Eiffel Tower, from the Place de la Concorde to the Grand and Petit Palais, the evolution of Paris and its history can be seen from the River Seine. The Cathedral of Notre-Dame and the Sainte Chapelle are architectural masterpieces while Haussmann’s wide squares and boulevards influenced late 19th- and 20th-century town planning the world over. The banks of the Seine is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The outstanding handling of new architectural techniques in the 13th century, and the harmonious marriage of sculptural decoration with architecture, has made Notre-Dame in Reims one of the masterpieces of Gothic art. The former abbey still has its beautiful 9th-century nave, in which lie the remains of Archbishop St Rémi (440–533), who instituted the Holy Anointing of the kings of France. The former archiepiscopal palace known as the Tau Palace, which played an important role in religious ceremonies, was almost entirely rebuilt in the 17th century. Notre Dame is an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We have been in Paris less than 24 hours and have had many adventures already!

We found a cute little Basque restaurant last night-Bob had squid in its own ink and I had cassoulet. Soon many French men started arriving-all of them gorgeous and interesting looking-place was dripping with testosterone and Bob laughed at what he called “my flushed face.”

We sat next to two young girls from Boston who were going to the Univ of Paris. When I asked them if they were going to marry a Frenchman they pulled faces and said-No, they definitely were not! They were going to go home and marry an American! I told them I had read that in the 60’s the feminist movement was strong but that it had virtually died out. They agreed and said that the men won the feminist war in France!

This morning we set out to find an internet cafe. I walked into a book store and asked for internet. The guy pulled a face and kind of spit-more like a big “poof” out of the side of his mouth and held up both hands flat out toward me. So we walked down the street and asked a younger guy at a news stand. He did the same thing!!! “Poof” out of the side of his mouth. I laughed and pointed at the face he was making-he laughed back-he had a little English-he said the internet was for the “young.” Don’t know what he considered himself-he looked to be late 20’s. Then he said France was small and didn’t need the internet and that the post was better. I think he was pulling my leg so to speak. So we laughed and walked away, eventually finding our treasure.

Bob is amazed at all the little green maintenance men with green brooms riding in green little trucks and on green motorcycles!

We had asked the manager at the hotel we were in in London what advice he had for us in France since he had worked here for 2 years and was going to Nice to work soon. He said that in rural France to try to pronounce French with a sarcastic tone and “they will like you better!” He said that people in rural France regard Parisian French as “snooty.” What do we know. We still have to find out how to get on the train!

A Good Thing

Posted on by Laughingnomad

It’s a Good Thing to take along a tour guide and in this group that will be Bob-most probably because he has the greatest need to know where he is located at all times. On the train yesterday leaving Paris he is standing looking out the window for an interminably long time. Fnally he turned around to sit down and said “I guess they know where they are going!”

TVG Trains Better Than Hitching

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High speed (TVG) trains travel over 200,mph. In 1965 when a college friend and I traveled through Europe; it took all night to get from Dover to Ostergard on a roller coaster boat! But then in 1965 the Captain invited us up to the steerage! In 1965 we also hitchhiked…which I wouldn’t recommend doing now either. Can you imagine just having to get from one city to the next in the rain having to stick your head in the window of a stopped car or truck to get a “hit” about how safe it was!

In Bayonne France; having breakfast in a small hotel built in the 1700’s we talked to an English woman at the next table who is now living in Spain and who also traveled through Europe and South America by hitching rides-but she quickly added that it was no longer safe for anyone to hitch (or “autostop” as it was called in Europe.

Incidentally, in the summer of 1965 John Kennedy called up the first group of “advisors” to go to Viet Nam: The rumor spread like wildfire that there was going to be a draft call up before the summer was over! Young hitchhiking American males were abandoning their travel and enrolling in any summer school program they could find in Europe by the hundreds to avoid the draft. That summer that I turned 21 jerked me into one of my most early formative experiences.

Chunnel Tickets in London

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When Bob went to the train station in London to buy a train ticket through the chunnel to France, they did not bother to tell him that if he had a Eurostar ticket for travel through Europe his chunnel ticket would be 60 dollars less per ticket. (Special saver packages are not available to Europeans which may have something to do with it).

When we went back to the Waterloo station to take the chunnel; Bob tried to get a refund and they rudely refused to give it to him. So he felt gouged. On the other hand, he felt fortunate that he had the foresight to step into a travel agency on the way to Waterloo (you can’t buy train tickets in travel agencies in Europe) to ask a few questions. The very helpful agent on duty told him that when he bought the chunnel ticket, to buy a round trip ticket which was less than half the price of a one way ticket-that he wouldn’t be informed at the point of sale about the difference in price. Apparently it’s a way of making back some of the money lost when a tourist does not return to the country.

In the same way, the Eurail tickets for unlimited travel stops around Europe are very expensive and are not available to Europeans. If however; an American buys one in the states before leaving, there is a substantial savings. The same is true of the Eurostar Saver packages that allow, for example, two people who are traveling together to travel at a reduced rate. The only way we have found to deal with this is to temporarily become a Zen Buddhist.

Mother Country English

Posted on by Laughingnomad

Last night we were walking to the theater and a guy sitting on the sidewalk against a building waiting for the bus after work called out and asked if we were tourists. I turned and smiled and said yes. He said “Americans?” I shook my head yes. He shouted “I could tell by the way you walk!”

I looked back and discovered that the Brits have a whole vocabulary unfamiliar to us that was apparently lost when we crossed the Atlantic or they snuk it in when we weren’t looking! “Potty” means eccentric, the subway is called the tube, a house is “in” the street not on the street and they go “to hospital” not “to the hospital.” A dish towel is a “tea towel.” Food “to go” is “take away” but then they use “take away” in New York too. (That’s another whole vocabulary.) “Bugger off” means go away. A “robot” is a traffic light and the trunk of a car is a “boot.” Actually neither word, “trunk” nor “boot” makes any sense to me. A diaper is a “nappy,” a clothes pin is a “peg.” “Pants” refers to underpants or panties. The correct term for “pants” in England is “trousers.” New Zealanders use “togs” to mean a swimsuit but the English use it to refer to any clothing. Pegs, (pronounced “pigs”) means clothespins. A “powerpoint” is a plug-in or socket. To us in the U.S. it means a microsoft application. Don’t know about England but if you are in Scotland don’t tell someone to “scoot over.” The “scoots” means you have the “runs.” Don’t call it a “fanny pack” when you’re in the UK, Australia, or NZ. That word does not mean “tuckus” there. Instead Aussies laugh at the American tourists wearing “bum bags.”

And then other things that seemed odd to us at first look…yogurt was brought around to sell to patrons at the theater during intermission, (actually not a bad idea). BBC reported on the curling gold medal every time we turned on the TV-very big deal over here…I had never heard of curling.

I watched the Olympics closing ceremony on TV while Bob went to Piccadily Square to get tickets for a play and buy a eurail ticket which is another long story entirely. In the meantime, we were entertained by “Blood Brothers” about twins who had been separated at birth by adoption to poor and and rich families respectively….theme being class differences of course. We are greedy…going to another play tonight; half price on same day. We’ll see what is available.

Oddest thing I’ve seen is Black guy with half his head front to back in a natural and the other half in dreads…a split identity?

I want fish and chips one more time before we leave London for Paris! In pubs we found out the hard way that you have to go up to the bar to order-wouldn’t come wait on you if you sat there all day! Foot long wonderful breaded and deep fried but juicy piece of fish more sitting atop a pile of french fries (chips in England) and sometimes with a cup of peas dumped on top of it all or can just order peas which are called “mash.” Usually served in a stiff piece of paper twisted to make a funnel-like carrier.

Hip Notting Hill

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We didn’t realize that our neighborhood was “hip” until we were sitting in our hotel/bar in Notting Hill a couple days ago and I noticed a newspaper clipping pinned up on the wall above me with a picture of Clinton standing at the same bar with local beer in hand. He and 9 presidential guards had stopped here at the Portobello Gold Pub for a beer and bite to eat on the recommendation of the British Ambassador’s daughter who comes here with her friends. Then I guess because of some hitch they left without paying and of course it made the front page of one of the neighborhood tabloids.

Our $70 room room above the Portobello Gold Pub is barely big enough to turn around in. Toilet down the hall. Tiny sink in the shower which is barely big enough to turn around in. The food is great in the pub downstairs. And all the free internet you want!

The movie, Nottinghill, with Julia Roberts and Hugh Grant was filmed here…Grant’s travel bookstore, now a tourist destination, is just down the street. Diana used to come here to eat-Nicole Kidman comes here to shop.

The story is that the area used to be racially intolerant in 50’s and 60’s so the black community took charge of creating a multicultural festival here which has became the biggest and most outrageous festival in Europe…drawing thousands from all over the world every August.

Mt. Kailash Tibet And West Nepal Trek

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Bob circles the holy mountain. For the story and pictures of his experience go here.

Bob mentioned that when he did his Kora (trip) around the holy mountain of Kailesh in Tibet you always knew who the Jains were because they circumnavigated the mountain clockwise and the Hindus and the Buddhists walked around counter-clockwise. The belief is that if you make so many trips around the mountain in a lifetime (something like 24) that you can achieve freedom from your sins on earth.

Guadalajara & Tamazula

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While Bob was on a climbing trip to Nepal, I traveled with friend Patty Gutierrez to Patty’s father’s tiny village of Tamazula de Gordiano south of Guadalajara and on to the beach at Manzanillo.

Over the years, Bob and I have taken several other trips to Guadalajara, Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende, Acapulco, Puerto Vallarta and Mazatlan, but this trip was special with Patty along…visiting her paternal home village. We visited a family that had been the cook in Patty’s restaurant in Salem for several years.

Sitting in the small village plaza one night about 11pm a small boy and his brother came up to us selling the proverbial chiclets. What are you doing up so late, Patty scolded him in Spanish. My mom will get mad at us if we don’t sell all our gum today, he said shyly. Hell if you do and hell if you don’t. She bought all the chiclets he had!