Calderon Wants Raise

From the Mexico Solidarity Network:

“President Felipe Calderon called for a 25% raise in the presidential salary, to more than US$20,000 per month. Calderon presented the request to Congress on September 10. The presidential salary is in addition to benefits for clothing, entertainment and travel which can easily surpass the official salary. The request comes after Calderon reduced his own salary immediately after assuming the presidency in an effort to gain popular support after a fraudulent election.”

El Grito in Oaxaca

A friend’s report on the grito: “My observations are that indeed the zocalo was turned into an armed camp; I counted ten policemen on each corner of Garcia Vigil, and at the Alameda, along Independencia. Given that atmosphere, I went instead to the popular grito, which was held on Carmen Alto Plazuela, with about two hundred attending. It was staged early to avoid confrontations. The event began with a calenda from Simbolos Patrias and by eight PM the plazuela was filled with people. As is common, the children recited and were applauded, followed by cries of More! More!. The kids were followed by singers who sang the struggle ballads (More! More! Otra! Otra!). Then the “cry” came, consisting of the names of the dead from the past year. The person giving the cry was a woman, and I never heard who she is, but ! I have photos. Then the national anthem, then Venceremos…it was what I expected, and am never unmoved by, a people’s event.”

Mexico’s Pipe Bombs

My expat friend in Oaxaca says “an opinion piece by Ricardo Rocha and published in the Oaxaca Noticias on Friday the 14th of September, has a few points I think worth calling to the attention of people outside of Oaxaca. Rocha points out that if the guerrilla group Ejército Popular Revolucionario (EPR), a small, rural-based Marxist guerrilla group that had been inactive for years, after a series of spectacular attacks on police in 1996, explodes oil pipelines, it is not a small casual act to be sloughed off with a shrug. The EPR has opted for armed revolution. The EPR resurfaced last year amid the civil unrest that shook the capital city of Oaxaca state, where protesters over many months paralysed the city and demanded the ouster of the governor. At that time, the EPR claimed responsibility for several bank bombings in Mexico City.

Despite URO (governor) saying “no pasa nada”, a lot is happening. Those of us here can see the state is in chaos, held together mainly by armed local and federal police. But the federal investigation units cannot foresee or control the guerrilla attacks which grow more sophisticated.

Rocha accepts that URO is responsible for the two EPR people who were disappeared last month. He refers to a return of the dirty war, which human rights activists here say is not a return but a continuation of government tactics employed since the seventies.

Meanwhile, Rocha points out, nobody is paying attention to the structural causes of rebellion. The APPO, we know, is non-violent, but the EPR has no such commitment, nor, I think do other groups around the nation. Rocha refers to Explosive Mexico, not just Explosive Oaxaca. He refers to the extremes of poverty, destitution of populations and communities, children suffering with parasites, bloated bellies , etcetera —while the political and business elite increase their already elevated salaries and perks.

And to add fuel to the fire, Rocha points out, a federal judge condemned an activist from Atenco to 67 years in prison.”

An article about the EPR’s bombing of Mexico’s gas pipelines appeared on economist.com September 13 and can be found <a href="<a href=" here.“>

My friend goes on to ask “Why does no middle class or affluent person pay attention to the real situation? I can say that reforms to guarantee an independent human rights commission and a electoral reform law are on the right track–but are they? Or are they irrelevant and unenforceable? Do they address the underlying causes of why armed guerrillas operate in Mexico?”

We go about our lives, but with great unease.”

“El Grito” Cry For Independence

In two days, Mexico will celebrate Independence Day on September 17. It is traditional for the governor to enter the Governor’s Palace, now a museum since the teacher strike of last year, and utter the “cry for Independence” at midnight. This is done in Mexico City and all over Mexico.

An expat reports “I have not gone today (Saturday) to personally look at the scene, but the usual is to place heavy barriers of metal, cement or razor wire in the roadways of all streets that enter the zocalo. The sidewalks permit entry of single persons who in the past have had their bags searched. The police stand at the barricades in riot gear.

A description of the “safety”, brought to us by a website in support of the government, ADA Sureste describes the event. It is a safety measure to have ready water tanks (high pressure hoses) and teargas, all the police units available as well as firefighters, and to patrol the streets and towns around the area. Inside the museum palace there will be units of police, with a total of ten strategically placed.

This is to continue through the independence day celebrations on the 17th. Since the grito ! will be given at midnight (or 1:00 AM on daylight savings, I don’t know which hour will be used) it will be dark, adding to the need for ‘safety.'”

This article also confirms that a separate “popular grito” will be given at Santo Domingo Church…the people refusing to participate in the official event. A friend in Oaxaca says “I would suggest that any foreigner who chooses to attend either the governor’s ceremony or the popular event do so with circumspect behavior, whatever that means.”

Battle Of The Corn

An expat in Oaxaca City has reported that “yesterday the campesinos from the Frente de Communidades of the Cordillera Norte descended into the Zocalo at the center of Oaxaca. they took out all the flowers lining the cement-walled plant areas and planted native corn. In the Alameda, the area didn’t have any plants under the trees anyway (waiting for URO’s next move), so seeding it was easier. It’s been raining, and the “corn fields” look like big mud flats, protected with string fences supported with posts. – well, at least the bird didn’t eat the seed! The Oaxaca people have declared their opposition to transgenic corn by planting the real thing.

Since corn was cultivated first in Oaxaca, corn is considered a cultural patrimony. The campesinos are asking people to grow their own, and maintain the pure thing without purchase from the USA of the yellow corn which undercuts the price of local corn by transnationals like Monsanto, Cargill, Dow AgroSciences and Novartis, plus US farm subsidies. Transgenics have contaminated the local plants, to a degree which is not known – but the farmers are seeking a denial for their import and use in Mexico.”

Today, she reported that “the criollo corn planted in the zocalo and Alameda by the united communities of the Cordillera mountain range to protest transgenic corn by Monsanto, has been dug up. Instead, the government is once again planting hundreds of flowers, petunias, begonias and such, in the mud of the much-rained on plant beds. There is one corn patch which may have survived on the north side of the Alameda- at least it was today. If anyone sees sprouts, let us know.

I have no proof, but my guess is that tearing up the seeds was a kind of pay-back for the 10,000 person march three days ago. But maybe not. Maybe the government just likes flowers. Too bad they never last more than a week, since they are not native to this climate — and I’ve been told by a worker at Carmen Alto Plazuela, that the government refuses to plant native cactus or succulents, which tolerate heat and drought, and last forever. But then, maybe petunias are not too bad, since they must be a big source of income for whatever nursery supplies them….

I have to admit this kind of symbolic warfare is better than disappearing people, but I felt really sad. There’s something about seeing plants sprout -especially food plants, -that can’t be matched by potted flowers.”

A Short History Of The 2006 Lucha (Struggle) In Oaxaca

The following is taken from an article by John Ross written for the Fort Worth Weekly August 22, 2007

The mountainous southern state of Oaxaca sits at the top of most of Mexico’s poverty-indicator lists — for infant mortality, malnutrition, unemployment, illiteracy. Human rights violations are rife. It also is home to Mexico’s heaviest concentration of indigenous peoples, with 17 distinct Indian cultures, each with a rich tradition of resistance to the dominant white and mestizo overclass. Oaxaca vibrates with class and race tensions that cyclically erupt into uprising and repression.

The Party of the Institutional Revolution, or PRI, ruled Mexico for most of the last century, until its corrupt dynasty was overthrown in 2000 by the right-wing National Action Party (PAN) and its picaresque presidential candidate, Vicente Fox, former president of Coca Cola-Mexico.

But in Oaxaca, the PRI never lost power. While voters all over the country were throwing off its yoke, Oaxaca was electing that party’s Ulises Ruiz Ortiz — known as URO — in a fraud-marred gubernatorial election in 2004.

In the first 16 months of his regime, Ruiz proved spectacularly unresponsive to the demands of the popular movements for social justice. He turned a deaf ear in May 2006, when a militant local of the National Education Workers Union known as Section 22 presented its contract demands. A week later, tens of thousands of teachers took over Oaxaca’s plaza and 52 surrounding blocks and set up a ragtag tent city. Each morning, the maestros would march out of their camp and block highways and government buildings, which were soon smeared with anti-URO slogans.

Ruiz retaliated before dawn on June 14, sending a thousand heavily armed police into the plaza to evict the teachers. Low-flying helicopters sprayed pepper gas on the throng below. From the balconies of colonial hotels that surround the plaza, police tossed down concussion grenades. Radio Planton, the maestros’ pirate station, was demolished and the tent city set afire. A pall of black smoke hung over the city.

Four hours later, community members and striking teachers, armed with clubs and Molotov cocktails, overran the plaza and sent URO’s cops packing. No uniformed police officers would be seen on the streets of Oaxaca for many months. And on June 16, two days after the monumental battle, 200,000 Oaxacans marched through the city to repudiate the governor’s “hard hand.” The demonstration reportedly extended for more than six miles.

John Gibler, who closely covered the Oaxaca uprising as a fellow for the international human rights organization Global Exchange, wrote that the surge of rebels on June 14 soon transformed itself into a popular assembly. The Oaxaca Peoples Popular Assembly or APPO was formally constituted a week later. It would have no leaders but many spokespersons, with all decisions to be made in popular assemblies.

For the next several weeks, APPO and Section 22 would paralyze Oaxaca — but the rest of Mexico took little notice. Instead, the nation was hypnotized by the suspect July 2 presidential election in which a right-wing PANista, Felipe Calderón, was awarded a narrow victory over coalition candidate and leftist Andrés Manuel López Obrador. When López Obrador cried foul, millions poured into the streets, in the most massive political demonstrations in Mexican history. Oaxaca seemed like small potatoes.

But Oaxaca is an international tourist destination, and the APPO and Section 22 had closed down the tourist infrastructure, blocking the airport and forcing five-star hotels to shut their doors. On July 17, Ruiz was forced to announce the cancellation of the “Guelaguetza,” a dance festival that has become Oaxaca’s premier tourist attraction.

Ruiz began to fight back.

During the first weeks of August, he launched what came to be known as the “Caravan of Death” — a train of 30 or 40 private and government vehicles, rolling nightly, filled with city and state police officers firing on the protesters.

To keep the Caravan of Death from moving freely through the city, the APPO and the maestros threw up a thousand or more barricades in the working-class neighborhoods of the city and its suburbs. The rebels piled up dead trees, old tires, and the carcasses of cars and buses, and the barriers soon took on their own life. Murals were painted with the ashes of the bonfires that burned atop the piles, and the barricades lent an air of the Paris Commune to Oaxaca’s struggle.

An uneasy lull had gripped the city when Brad Will arrived at the bus terminal on the first of October and found himself a cheap room. But the break wouldn’t last long.

Like most non-Mexicans who style themselves independent reporters, Will had no Mexican press credential and only a tourist visa, meaning he was working illegally and susceptible to deportation. But he got himself accredited by Section 22 and wore the rebel group’s credential around his neck with his Indymedia press card.

On Oct. 14, APPO militant Alejandro García Hernández was killed at a barricade downtown. Will joined an angry procession to the Red Cross hospital where the dead man had been taken. In his last dispatch, on Oct. 16, Will’s words caught this very Mexican whiff of death: “Now [Alejandro] lies there waiting for November 2nd, the Day of the Dead, when he can sit with his loved ones again to share food and drink and song,” he wrote. “One more death. … One more time to know power and its ugly head.”

The dynamic in Oaxaca had gotten “sketchy,” Will wrote to Neary. A Section 22 leader had cut a deal with the outgoing Fox government and forced a back-to-work vote Oct. 21 that narrowly carried, amid charges of sell-outs and pay-offs. If the teachers went back to work, the APPO would be alone on the barricades and even more vulnerable to Ruiz’ gunmen. But backing down is not in the Popular Assembly’s dictionary, and the APPO voted to ratchet up the lucha (struggle) and make Oaxaca really ungovernable.
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Meanwhile In Oaxaca

Last week the Governor of Oaxaca went to the United States as part of a group of Mexican governors where he was confronted with protests in several cities, including New York. Protesters in the street threw tomatoes at the restaurant where URO and other governors were said to be dining. Oaxaca human rights violations are so widely known that even in Finland Oaxaca is regarded as an example, according to a man just returned from there, of the struggle for human dignity; information about Oaxaca has reached global levels although I don’t know what good it is doing. Mexico doesn’t seem to care.

The following remarks were taken from an article by an expat in Oaxaca:
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Return To Oregon

After a year in Oaxaca Mexico I drove through Mexico City (without getting killed) to Queretaro where my old Mexican-American friend, Patsy and her husband Jose, were waiting for me. Patsy and Jose are in Mexico trying to get legal papers for him. Jose helped me get the car repaired and repainted and then Patsy and I took off for the Texas border. We crossed at the Columbia Friendship Bridge about 30 miles west of Loredo..a great option to the Loredo crossing. New, park-like, very few cars; bright friendly border guards. Think it was built as part of the NAFTA trade agreement…

Let me tell you, Texas is a BIG state with not much to see in it! Twelve hours later we hit Las Cruces, New Mexico. Then the next day we drove another twelve hours to Las Vegas where my oldest son, Greg, was awaiting our arrival and where we lounged in comfort and convenience. When Patsy and I went to Vons, a nearby clean orderly grocery store we flew in all directions…excitedly choosing yogurt WITH NO SUGAR, blueberries, raspberries, bagels, familiar cheese! Do you feel like you just crawled out of a hole, I asked Patsy. Yes, she agreed! No in-your-face corruption (just hidden), no late-night apprehensions, arrests and killings! No bullshit bureaucracies..at least not yet.

The next day Patsy flew to Portland Oregon and I stayed behind a couple days to enjoy Greg and a casual catered buffet dinner at his home with his friends…Andy, a Mexican ex-marine from LA and his fiance…two apparently very successful female real estate developers…Las Vegas being the real estate capital of the country at the moment…and the witty gay black caterer and his partner. And Greg’s very best friend…an Iranian anesthesiologist…and his sister. Around the pool that night, after a few lemon-drop martinis, we had a very spirited conversation about immigration…the black guys providing an added dimension to the debate. And best of all, a nice long telephone call from son Josh who was traveling through western China for a few weeks to sample the Sichuan cuisine before returning to Beijing where he is the chef de cuisine at one of the restaurants in the Hilton Hotel. Meanwhile, his wife Amy visited her family in the States during a month-long break from her job as a teacher of history in the International School. The next day Greg treated me to sushi…a belated birthday and mother’s day gift. That night we enjoyed a wonderful Lebanese dinner with Greg’s Iranian friend, Bob for short, who, Greg said, had to court his wife, who he met in London, for three years…he being Iranian and she being Lebanese…before the families would agree to let them marry. Their two small lively squealing children crawled all over Uncle Greg from the moment we arrived. A truly lovely family and I feel very privileged to have met them. And told Greg he should date Bob’s beautiful sister…

The night before I left Las Vegas Greg and I were invited to the home of the sister of his latest girlfriend, Vanessa. Vanessa’s mother, a lovely woman who joined us, is Costa Rican and her father Cuban. Needless to say, Las Vegas rivals New York City in it’s diversity. The next day I drove non-stop from Vegas to Salem…from 9am to 2:30am…never again.

I enjoyed a week with my son Doug who was waiting for me at the house in Salem…before his return thursday to his wife, Luk, in Thailand. Luk and Doug’s father, who lives south of Pattaya, were to join Doug in Bangkok today. In a couple days Doug and Luk will fly down to their home overlooking the Gulf of Thailand on Ko Samui.

Now, for me, it’s back to the reality of Oregon…few people on the streets, no Zocalo to meet friends over coffee to watch the latest march or music concert or candela…visual and auditory feasts. No pesky colorful vendors many of whom ended up my friends. I can even laugh now about the really old and ugly woman beggar who owns two apartment houses. And the guy who, after a drinking binge, makes everyone groan when he “sings” “Oaxaca, Oaxaca!” with his battered guitar. And the wandering trombone player, with his plump wife sitting faithfully on a stool next to him, who makes you plug your ears. Apparently no one has told him trombones aren’t supposed to be solo instruments. The two saxaphone players weren’t so bad…one better than the other who was always asking me “vamos a mi casa!” Right! And Jorge, the raboso vendor who knew everything about everyone. And the two retired one-eyed Viet Nam vets, the retired right-winger with a big heart who used to be the police chief in a small Colorado town and who has adopted a poor Oaxaca family to support. An eccentric police chief, he once did a traffic stop, he told me, with a big red clown’s nose attached to his face! The guy, with a Ph.D in French literature who lives on $70 a month and plays chess every day at five o’clock in front of the Cathedral after sitting all afternoon with one coffee in a sidewalk cafe. The Mexican kids, many of whom are excellent players, pay him 10 cents to use his chess board and clock…and many of whom just hang around to practice English with us. And they admire the tall, unusual gringo who voluntarily lives on so little. He would often walk me back to my apartment late at night after the Marimba Band had finished up in front of the Del Jardin Restaurant. Good times with my retired friend from San Francisco who arrived in Oaxaca on the same plane as me and helped me fill out my visa application. Bilingual, she had previously lived three years in Veracruz. She is helping facilitate the erection of FM community radio transmitters around the state. Community radios, although legal, are essentially enemies of the hated state governor. I worry for her. And Elvira, the soft-spoken Zapotec woman who organized a woman’s coffee bean collective. She travels five hours down from the mountains by bus to sell her coffee at the organic Pochote Market and stays thursdays and fridays overnight with this same friend before she goes back to her home at 5am Sunday morning. Lester, who was worried about his young son who was volunteering at the CIPO house…an indigenous volunteer organization, stayed with me two pleasurable weeks. And my gentle Swiss friend, Willy, an industrial engineer by training who is trying to make a living on the local economy by making incredible lamps out of debris from his backyard and as an eco-landscaper. I told him he could sell his lamps for hundreds in NYC. He wasn’t interested. Many good times with Charly from Canada who introduced me to Mica and Bardo…all coffee roasters…and in whose adobe home in Huayapam we enjoyed many delicious Sunday afternoon cenas. And the several visitors Charly met on Sweet Maria’s coffee home-roasting web site and sent down to visit Oaxaca. One of them, Jennifer, when I picked her and her husband up at the airport, said that I looked familiar and asked if I ever went to the Beanery in Salem where she used to work. Of course, I said! And Hector and Lulu, my landlords with a new baby, and eternally cheerful Adelina, the apartment maid, and her lively bright daughter Fernanda, who watched out for me and would never let anyone inside the courtyard gates that she didn’t know. Adelina makes $200 a month…so I am putting Fernanda through school…no big feat…only $30 a year for registration and another $20 for shoes. I will miss Adelina the most. And the friends who came and went in the other two apartments that were configured such that we could all talk to each other without leaving our apartments. Joe, a retired CPA from Chicago, who helped us organize the badly sung Norteno Christmas Party for the landlords and their families, twenty-something Canadians Ana and Steve, Roy and Eileen from San Francisco. Peter, a funny Australian guitarist and his wife Mirella who have come to live in Oaxaca. The two absolutely delightful woman interns I met at the Casa de los Amigos Guesthouse run by the Quakers in Mexico City who came to stay with me a few days. When I was in Chiang Mai Thailand, I used to go to a nearby guesthouse for a $2 buffet breakfast where I met “Sharkey”, a twenty-something firefighter from Eugene Oregon. He told me he used to live with a paraplegic Viet Nam vet in the mountains above Miahuatlan near Oaxaca City Mexico. So one night in the zocalo, when I met Judy, a friend of a paraplegic Viet Nam vet who lives in the mountains above Miahuatlan, I told her I had met Sharkey in Chiang Mai. “You know Sharkey?” she exclaimed. Small world indeed. And then there were the many wonderful long conversations with my anarchist friend, Max, also a classicist who enjoys high mass in the cathedral. Now, I’ll have time to read Mikhail Bakunin, Max. Sigh. Re-entry always the most difficult part.

Eleven Hour Drive To Queretaro

Well, I left Sunday morning at 2:30am and made it across Mexico City without getting killed! Made it to Queretaro about 1pm in the afternoon. We’re planning on leaving for the border on the 5th…then to Las Vegas to see my son Greg…and then to Oregon.

An expat said by email on Monday that “the radio reports that the Popular Movement in Oaxaca will meet at the market (I didn’t hear which, but out near Branamiel) very early this morning. They will go to the foot of the hill. Others are supposed to go singly (hormigas) like ants…A different report says they will avoid Crespo, and circle around by Porfirio Diaz, to the zocalo.

I would imagine that it will be very difficult to attack people, wherever they go. Tourists are witnesses. I also hear that no public transportation is coming into the city.”