Oregon In Summer

Oregon is most delightful in summer! Everything is so green. And my mouth has been watering for local strawberries, raspberries, peaches and cherries. And Walla Walla Sweet Onions! Cars obey the rules, garbage is picked up and motorcycles don’t try to run you down. And sweet faces of old friends are a joy.
This blog has just been sitting here while I have been planting flowers and maintaining the house for the last month since I’ve been home. I’m not used to house maintenance. I’m not used to making appointments and keeping them on time. My inner mechanisms are a jambles. The world news is upsetting and I’m sick of the negative campaign and mindless pundits. So I have been planting flowers. And enjoying my home. It’s like being in a 5 star hotel after all the cheap guest houses in Asia.

A couple weeks ago I was treated with a visit from two of my sons…Josh and Greg. They were on a mission to see their 92 year old grandmother in Portland. Josh was in between jobs so he spent a few days here and treated me and some of our old friends to a wonderful dinner here at the house…4 hours in the preparation of. Just like old times. I loved the banter. I miss it now. Then he flew to Las Vegas with Greg where he spent a week or so before flying to Hong Kong to join his wife Amy and begin work. They are happy to finally be out of mainland China…especially with the Olympics coming.

I’ll have a month of peace before Doug arrives from Thailand the first week of September…leaving the end of October. And time to catch up on my reading. Finished “Bangkok Blondes,” a book of short stories by expat women living in Bangkok. And “Tales From The Expat Harem,” also a book of short stories by expat women living in Turkey. Now I’m reading a short history of the Balkans where I hope to go next fall.

I am looking forward to leaving the house in the care of a renter in November and returning to Oaxaca Mexico for a couple of months before going to Cuba and Guatemala with an American expat friend in Oaxaca. Then I hope to go on to other Central and South American countries before returning to Oregon next summer. So that’s the deal…taking advantage of a window of time while I am still able to walk and before the cost of airline fuel prohibits any more travel.

In the meantime I spend time on http://www.couchsurfing.com making friends in all the prospective countries I will be visiting. It’s an online community where you hook up with friends and arrange to stay with them…and they with you. And join CS activities in their local communities. If you travel try it! You’ll like it!

Hong Kong Two

After a week here, I leave Hong Kong this morning on the 1.5 hour long train ride to Guangzhou China. Hong Kong is Hong Kong. The mainland is China according to the locals here who needless to say do not consider themselves part of China even though China does.

I will be in Guangzhou two nights and then hopefully fly out on an Air China 777 to Beijing 8:00 pm on flight 1302.on the 30th. The news this morning is not good. A cold front has brought snow across much of China and apparently the Guanzhou train station is a mess with people trying to get out to visit relatives for Chinese New Year. Glad I’m taking the plane but even then weather conditions may delay my flight. The chinese parliament met yesterday in an emergency session to assess the lack of coal and electricity needed to keep the country functioning. Oh great! So if I don’t show up in Beijing 11pm, where my son son Josh and his wife Amy will pick me up at the airport, hopefully interested parties will know where to start looking!

I will miss my little neighborhood in Kowloon…Cameron Street between Nathan and Chatham. There is everything I need here….interesting winding streets to explore. A coffee shop owned by a German…noodle shops galore. 7-11’s every block.. Starbucks up on Kimberly street where the taxi driver says I can find lively nightlife. Right! McDonald’s open 24 hours and next door to them a KFC…not that I go to either place. There are sales galore in anticipation of Chinese New Year but I have no room in my backpack for one more thing until I unload onto Josh in Beijing.

I will miss my Philippino housemaid who has taken good care of me at the Star Guesthouse. Her cubicle here in the guesthouse is no bigger than the smallest closet. Her daughter back in the Philippines, a nurse, is trying to get a job in California.

I listen to Bloomberg financial channel to find that markets are down in the U.S. and Europe but up everywhere in Asia except Japn. I listen to Al Jazeera, that I consider the best English language news channel in the world, while tending to my email on my laptop. And make left-over business calls to the U.S. on Skype. Yesterday, I hear about ex-president Suharto’s death. Good riddance to a man who was never conviced of bilking his country …siphoning off billions of dollars to his family and friends….his daughter’s plea to forgive her father for all his mistakes a little too late. But many people in his country are reportedly very forgiving…and still respect this former general for miraculously pulling his country into the modern age economically. Hard to believe he will be given a state funeral. This morning I listened to a Serbian tennis champ from Australia proclaim that his father always believed in him more than he did in himself. Inspiring.

Every morning I cross the street to an all night noodle shop and have delicious chicken congee (rice pooridge) and scrambled eggs with tiny bits of meat mixed in. Yesterday I dined on dim sum which was really no different than that found at the old Fong Chong Company in Portland, OR.

This morning some crazy traveler next door, probably some damn person from the Americas in jetlag, woke me up at 3 am with his TV blaring. So I fled across the street to coffee and early breakfast. “You are here a long time,” I said to the same waiter who was here yesterday afternoon. “Yes, I work 16 hours a day,” he said. “No money!” Then I remembered an article in the English language Hong Kong Magazine that said that, in this very expensive city, the average salary for a waiter is about U.S. $780.00 a month. On the other hand a retail sales rep with just one year of experience receives U.S $1500 a month. In an upscale restaurant there is a 10% service charge but is rarely distributed among the service workers. So waiters live on tips.

The streets here are very clean. People smoke while walking on the street since smoking is not allowed indoors (except for homes) Every few yards there is a large “ashtray” fixed atop a garbage bin. There is a lot of English spoken here, left over from the British occupation, and is a comfortable place for a westerner to transition to mainland China..if you live long enough to keep from being run over by a taxi or knocked off the sidewlk by the fast-walking locals who don’t seem to have the patience to deal with gawking tourists. New York all over again.

Hong Kong

I did it! It’s 9pm January 22 here now. Never going to take long 20 hour plane flight again! Will stop off somewhere…anywhere…Hawaii…Figi…anywhere! Fast efficient train to Kowloon and then taxi to the Star Guesthouse on Cameron Rd. 6th floor of a big building. I stayed just down the street at the Lee Garden before…same owner…friendly Charlie Chan. My room is just big enough for a single bed and TV…and small bathroom…and broadband internet access. U.S. $40 per night but it works just fine…friendly helpful staff. Access to refrigerator, microwave and hot water kettle. I will feel at home here for 8 days until I take the train to Guangzhou and then plane to Beijing where son Josh and his wife Amy will pick me up at the Beijing Airport.

Tomorrow I will find a computer store and buy hardware for Josh’s Mac computer. And apply for a China visa…double entry…30 days each. The visa is about 6 times more expensive for U.S. and UK tourists than for others. Sliding scale I guess. Similar in some post-colonial African countries.

Tonight, sushi across the street.

No Chinese Visa In Germany

Today we try to get our China visa in Berlin, but were refused because we weren’t Germans. It was suggested by the Chinese embassy that we could get a visa in Hong Kong, but since our trans siberian tickets had us entering China from Mongolia, this presented a dilemma: without the visa the alternative would be to take a plane from Ulaan Baator Mongolia to Hong Kong and then back into mainland China. We decide to wait and see if we can get the visa en route…maybe Prague.

Island Of Mindoro,Philippines

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After the cold nights in China, we were looking for warmth so we flew from Hong Kong to Manila in the Philippines for a couple nights and then took a ferry to the island of Mindoro. We found a fan room on the beach about 40 feet from the water where we did as little as possible other than reading, hiking and eating something other than Chinese food! At the end of a week we took the ferry back to Manilla where we stayed a couple nights and then flew back to Hong Kong to catch our flight for the States…missing Chinese New Years in the bargain!

To Guangzhou China

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Friday November 22 2002 Hong Kong to Guangshou
Across the street to noodle shop for breakfast. Sat with woman who worked as a buyer for a British department store & whose English was very good.

When Bob tried to get Hong Kong dollars from an ATM the message he received was that his account was empty eliciting possible cardiac arrest; went to internet again and, panicky, checked his account through the internet. All was well.

Picked up our passports with Chinese visas right on time from the hotel receptionist and checked out…no messing around…the maid was right there at 12:00 sharp asking us to be out. Think these places have been conditioned by unscrupulous backpackers.

Took taxi to train station for new fast two-hour train to one of mainland China�s big cities of commerce, Guanzshou in neighboring Guangdong Province.

Three China Travel Service (CTS) guys met us in the Guanzshou train station; Biggest Professional Hustle we�ve seen yet; with great confidence and aggresiveness they took us to a desk where they explained the train route from Guanzshou to Guilin; they took us to CTS office (state sponsored China Tour Company where they ran in and bought our train tickets… on the way telling
us they had a cheaper hotel on Shamian Dao Island-the tourist section-but we declined. So they took us to a modest Chinese run hotel near the big international hotels. Probably paid a commission for the train ticket but it would have been a big hassle to try to communicate to the railroad ticket seller which ticket we wanted and the ride to the hotel was free so all in all we felt OK about being touted that day.

The ($30 hotel room had three beds, worn carpet, but had TV with no English programming and a telephone; the bathroom was grimy with mold on the floors and walls. All they had to do, Jana and I told each other, was douse the whole room with bleach! A lady at a desk outside the room kept our key and gave us hot drinking water in a thermos for tea (as they do at all Chinese hotels).

Saturday November 23
Buffet Breakfast at upscale Garden Hotel; I looked for American Press and Cultural Club that was listed on a hotel kiosk but couldn’t find it; we laughed-thinking the club was a cover for the CIA!

Took taxi to the Shamian Dao Island-the tourist area with shops and cafes. Bob made friends with Sherry at Sherry’s Place and bought two T-shirts (one saying “No Money” and the other saying “Love” in Chinese) and cap with Chinese lettering saying Macho Man (Hero). What else is there to say? Saw kerchief with marijuana leaves on it…we laughed and told her what it was…she looked it up in her Chinese dictionary and was mortified.

On the street in front of the shop talked to a friendly outgoing older guy with suspenders and pot belly from Indiana and his young Chinese wife he met through a friend living in China; he had written to her for awhile and then made the trip to China and brought her over on a fiance visa…married 7 years with a 4 year old boy. The 65 year old gu said he had the easiest job in the world at Chrysler (probably sales) and had no plans to retire. Wife used to have a shop in the upscale White Swan Hotel on the island where Communist Party heads used to meet.

Orange squash drink and iced coffee at Lucy’s Cafe; Bob made friends with Paula the waitress. Bob and Jana entertained a group of school girls 17-20 who wanted to practice English.

Watched large group of young kids…some with wanna be baggy pants and stocking hats… all waiting to enter an MTV karaoke hall.

Practically every male smokes…difficult to get away from it.

Westerners Go In The Back

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Video

Thursday November 21 2002
Reading “The Coming Collapse of China,” a book written by a Chinese American economist…a dissenting opinion…he gives China five years to get their banking system in order…which he doubts will happen.

At breakfast at small noodle shop up the street in Hong Kong, seated at back table again. Waited for the waiter to clean off all the surrounding tables and then he finally came to take our order…hmmmm.

Arranged for Chinese Visa; Bob told the ladies that he picked Jana and I up off the street; another lady who heard this stuck her head out a door to see who it was that was picked up! Bob’s sense of humor will get us into trouble yet.

Took the Star Ferry from Kowloon across the bay to Hong Kong Island and took a cable car to the top of Victoria Peak for an incredible view of the city. Rode a double decker bus on it’s route through the city center; got off and tried to find a dim sum restaurant…but Bob was steered to a Japanese sushi restaurant instead so we figured he must be pronouncing dim sum wrong. Finally found dim sum (pronounced din sin in China) restaurant. Managed to order a few dishes from the waitress but never did get the rice.

By the time we boarded the ferry back to Kowloon it was dark and the buildings were lit…Christmas lights beginning to go up…rivals New York & San Francisco.

Hong Kong

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Wednesday November 20 2002
We flew to Hong Kong from Bangkok on China Airways at 3pm…a one hour time change. We noticed the metal spoon and fork that came with our food service but with plastic knife instead of a metal one…

I am always forgetting to fill out departure and arrival cards and you would think I�d have memorized my passport number by now! Difficulty finding information about bus and train to Hong Kong; finally found an ATM after a fashion. On the way out of the airport we saw guy in suit squatting, talking on his cell phone: past and present.

A very plush train took about 15 minutes to travel to Kowloon Hong Kong (vs. the bus that took one hour) but was about $10 each. A young professional woman with a badge walked very slowly through the train carriages casing everyone…watching for what…?

Garden Lee Guesthouse Cameron Road
We had made a reservation via email with Charlie Chan, the manager, for a Y400 (8 Yuan to the dollar) a night triple but when we arrived we were informed the triple was not available so they gave us two doubles for the same price. We were given a handful of keys…key to street enclosure; lift to eighth floor; key to hall door in entry; key to room just a little larger than a double bed; key to valuables drawer…

Applied for a multiple entry 90 day visa through the guesthouse. Then we got something to eat at small noodle shop up the street; were taken to the very back and seated.

Impressed by cleanliness and orderliness of the city; was told that plain clothed police patrol the tourist areas and fine anyone tossing garbage Y600. Little old ladies with brooms and dustpans keep the gutters clean just like the cities of SE Asia.

Bob and I sat on the steps of guesthouse and waited for Jana who came in from the airport on the bus about 11:30pm. Then went across the street to noodle shop so Jana could get something to eat; seated at the very back again…

China’s Secrets I Will Never Know

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Major Cities We Visited

“The opening up of China is a stirring idea,” Lonely Planet says. A foreigner traveling alone today is privileged to see more of China than almost any Chinese has seen in his or her lifetime. I wondered what we could learn-traveling alone. Our images and ideas of China have surely been contradictory and distorted over time.

In the years of the Cultural Revolution after 1966 tens of millions of Chinese had become the instruments of their own terror…a million were killed and some 30 million or more were brutally persecuted and displaced or starved to death. How could so many people be so led?

China has a billion and a half people now. And even now cruelty continues…in a book entitled “China’s New Rulers,” the authors recently published some secret Communist Party documents that admitted to 60,000 Chinese killed by police while fleeing between 1998 and 2001…or 15,000 a year. 97% of the world’s executions take place in China, the book says. It is a historic change that China’s people are becoming less and less afraid of the government than it is of them. For example, 54 year old Mrs. Ma wanted her name published when she told about how she was tortured recently in Zhongxiang, near Shanghai, while her son was tortured in the next cell because the Party wanted her to disclose the names of the people in her church or renounce her Christian faith.

China is a big country. In the two months we have left for travel in China, we have chosen to see Yunnan Province in the southwest…the most varied of China’s provinces ranging from tropical rainforest to snow-capped Tibetan peaks. It is home to nearly a third of all China’s ethnic minorities and nearly 50% of all its people are non-Han Chinese.

Historically, Yunnan, in southern China, was always one of the first regions to break with the northern government in Beijing. During China’s countless political purges, fallen officials often found themselves exiled here, which added to the province’s rebellious character…and probably why it has been so attractive to the countless foreign backpackers who blazed the original trails through it.

I wanted to see China for myself…and now that I am here I feel that every individual Chinese I see is harboring a secret I will never know…