I’m In My Glory

This past week, Ivan, my temporary Italian roomie, who has been living in Oaxaca many years but split with his girlfriend and lost his apartment cooked Pasta Bolognaise for me, Angie and her mom. Angie is the sister of Lumina, my friend who stayed with me for two weeks, with her British boyfriend, a couple years ago on their way back to Ohio to get married. They live now in the UK.

Then the next night this party wasn’t planned. It was a serendipity coming together at the last minute…all at the same time.

Bala, a biochem research scientist, from India but living in the UK and cycling from Alaska to Patagonia, came to me through Warm Showers, a hospitality web site for bicyclers similar to Couchsurfing.

Anita is a couchsurfer from Italy looking for a course in midwifery. Together with Ivan, these two Italians were a riot. My god, if I only had half the energy of these young people!

Sharon is a retired expat friend here in Oaxaca and enjoyed schooling Bala on the history of resistance in Oaxaca and answering his many questions. Sharon and I met on the plane in June 2006 when both of us were coming here to live.

Ksenia is Russian, (playing chess with Ivan) also coming to me through couchsurfing, was born in polar Siberia but has lived and traveled all over the world. She is one bright, funny, aware powerful woman! Loves Pussy Riot and confirmed all my suspicious about Russia today. But Ksenia, who studied chess (chess is taught in Russian schools) from the time she was a young girl, lost 6 chess games in a row to my Italian roomie who has never read a book on chess! She took it with great good humor!

The conversations ranged from geopolitics and economics to mind expansion with the help of 6 bottles of wine and a little herb! All with the requisite laughing and good humor…even the debates.

Then if that weren’t enough to warm my heart, Bala, cooked basmati rice and two curry dishes…for 7 people again the next night! OMG, what a treat!

Took Bala yesterday to the Tlacalula Sunday Market and found some borego (lamb.) Bala will cook lamb curry and fish curry again for tonight.

I have hope for the world.

Hong Kong 2014

Yesterday I took a Dragon Air flight from Chiang Mai to Hong Kong. The efficient 20 minute high speed train from the airport passes through Kowloon and ends in Hong Kong…at the building, incidentally, where Josh works in the penthouse location of the American Club restaurants. Heading to the turnstiles I see his smiling face on the other side. Oh joy!

We take a taxi to Josh’s tiny apartment in a Hong Kong high-rise with every wall space and corner full of artifacts picked up from Polly’s business travel all over SE Asia and from their trips to Istanbul and India. I add to all this sh** with a great but expensive handwoven Zapotec rug I brought from Oaxaca which now adorns Josh’s “office” floor. Josh and I explain to Polly that “Sh** can be used in a good or bad way. Stuff is just sh**t. She laughs. Next thing I know, Polly has taken a photo of all my stuff and posted it on Facebook with the caption “My shit from Oaxaca!” Ha! My apartment in Oaxaca is 5 times the size of his for $325 a month. He pays nearly $3000. Such is the price for living in a cosmopolitan city with the highest population density in the world.

Polly joins us later at a well-known traditional sushi restaurant. Polly is on a roll this night…so funny and so cute with her Cantonese accent. She is one smart witty woman. Well, she didn’t get her masters being a dummy. Of course Josh gives it as good.

It is a complement for a chef to be visited another chef. But this night the sushi bar was full so we were seated at a table outside the view of the chef. Josh decides to leave for another place but just as we were entering the elevator here comes running the sushi chef! “No no, don’t leave! I have room at the bar now!” The supreme complement for Josh!

Josh and the head sushi chef explain the nuances of each sashimi. I learn you never mix the wasabi with the soy sauce. Some is eaten with a special sauce of it’s own. And some is eaten without either…but with a tiny bit of grated salt from Nepal. Only two things I won’t eat, we told the chef. Raw egg and fermented bean. (Natto) Otherwise we eat what the chef decides what we will like. The fish is rich and finally I’ve really had enough. I told Josh I would really hate to see the bill. He accommodates. 🙂

After dinner we do a bit of shopping in a hip shop:

Polly says she would translate this as “what the hell… Mother fxxxker!” Delay No More!” I decide to wear it like the young Thai girls who wear t-shirts with totally inappropriate sayings in English. If they knew what they meant I can’t believe they would wear them! So now I will wear a t-shirt that only Cantonese-speaking people will understand…and watch their sly smiles! 😉

This trip is for only five days. Waiting for a taxi home, I tell Josh I’ve got Bangkok down. Next trip I think I will get a place of my own in Hong Kong for a couple weeks and explore this city…where East and West have come together in an interesting way ever since the British occupation.

I’m used to going to bed at 8:30-9 and getting up about 5:30 or 6. I collapse at midnight on the wonderfully comfortable couch under a great comforter and on a generous down pillow. What a relief from the rock-hard beds I’ve been sleeping on in cheap guesthouses for the last month!

In the morning Josh and Polly go to the gym. I am on the tiny veranda with a view of more highrises and the harbor. And my computer. They will take me to a traditional Dim Sum restaurant soon.

I am in my glory!

Antalya Turkey

I left Adana by plane for Antalya.  Outside the Arrivals Hall I asked a gentleman if he spoke English. He didn’t but another one with a very busy 4-year old in tow, overhearing me, asked if I needed help. The city  was a considerable distance from the airport. “Do the Red buses leave everyone off at the same place in the city?”  Yes, he said, but my friend can give us a ride into town. Oh my, I thought!  Ever since I arrived the Turks have been friendly and generous everywhere! He even gave me a Turkish pastry to eat on the way!

I am staying in the Kaleiçi (KAH-leh-ee-chee) a castle ruins at the center of the sprawling modern city which was a Roman town, then the Byzantine, then the Seljuk Turkish, and finally the Ottoman town.   There are oodles of shops, boutique hotels, guesthouses and restaurants along the narrow winding walking streets. I am staying at the Sabah Pansiyon…with breakfast…very friendly and helpful staff. And wifi in my room!  It’s a short distance to both the city center and the many coffee houses that line the beaches.  So the easy walking has been a pleasure.

I had to laugh today at an outdoor cafe with a view of the Taurus Mountains. About 40 German guys took nearly all the tables and chairs and ordered beer. The first one took a taste and made a face! lol. Turkish beer not so good?! ha! Then a Turkish guy tried to sell them all cologne and perfume. They had great fun with that!

I’ve been corresponding with a woman in Germany. When she read my blog and saw that Antalya was full of Germans she said:

The place where you are staying sounds very romantic. I know I would enjoy it there. The pension inside the ruin makes it even more romantic. I wish I could join you, but I don´t think I would like meeting so many Germans. I hope they behave and respect the country and the customs. There are reasonable ‘packages’ for a vacation in Turkey, so that must be the reason, why so many Germans are there now. We had a very tough and long winter . The sun has been out for the last two or three days, but next week, winter will be back again.

I assured her the Germans here were very well-behaved and gracious. lol I told her I felt sorry for these Germans. Cold in Germany and it’s been damn cold here!

Taurus Mountains

I have never seen so many stray cats in a country. The people put food outside their doorways to feed them. Dogs too. The surprising thing is they are so mild and gentle and approachable. Never seen an approachable cat before! I think this says a lot about the people here. They treat animals with love and care and it is a joy to watch.

I called another couchsurfer and a food writer, Tijen, whom I had had lunch with in Bangkok a couple of years ago. I was delighted to find that she lived only about a 10 minute walk to my pensyon in the Castle.  She cooked a lovely vegetarian lunch for me…steamed artichoke hearts with oil and lemon and a lentil salad. Says she:

“Green lentils with dried eggplants, wild leeks and dried tomatoes (I just soaked green lentils in water for few hours, then add all of them in the pot with some water and cooked it down. Of course there is salt, pepper, cumin seeds and olive oil. You can use normal leeks or onions, doesn’t matter. Buon appetite!”

The next day we had a breakfast of Borek, a wonderful Turkish pastry made by an old Borek Master in his tiny three-table restaurant. He learned it from his older brother and his uncle, Tijen said. Watch the video below showing how Borak is made:

Making Borak

Well, Tijen surprised me this morning and came by my pensyon to see if I needed anything. So I walked her back to her apartment and on the way we stopped and bought a bus ticket for tomorrow at noon to Bodrum. Thank God! I would have gone to the bus station not knowing there was only one bus a day and might have missed it! I told her she was my angel! She is leaving in the morning for Morocco. She is lucky she can travel all over the world for her work…writing food articles.

This morning in the breakfast room I talked again with a tall blond Danish guy…about 50. A former journalist, he is enraged by the lack of transparency and the corruption in Denmark! And the stupidity of the EU. Of all places! That should tell you a lot about all the other countries! When he described his Prime Minister I told him she sounded like our Sarah Palin. “Worse!” he said! She’s never worked…just always been a politician/bureaucrat. He actually said a lot of other things too I won’t repeat here.

I’ve always said that people running for government office should be required to have some time in the workplace first. He’s been aggravating government officials with letters and questions he doesn’t get answers to. He is afraid they will find a way to nail him and shut him up. So he is writing a book. He’s supposed to be here resting from all the controversy but it’s so cold he has been miserable…and we’ve both gotten chest colds…we think from the unclean air con/heating units in the rooms. I told him I was sorry to get him revved up again but he said no, it’s all just going round and round in his head anyway and that it was good to talk. I hope so.

I caved in this afternoon and had my first Burger King in 5 months!

Death To Criollo Corn In Oaxaca

Criollo corn is under attack in Oaxaca.  Hand made criollo corn tortillas are the prize find for any foreign foodie and for all local Oaxacans.  Industrial corn tortillas taste like sandpaper.  This reads like a detective novel in which Monsanto’s Washington-based communications company uses “phantom” or fake sources to derail a biologist’s career because he was demonstrating that genetically modified corn has indeed infested criollo corn fields.  In other words, the industrialists are fighting natural corn from within in order to make farmers dependent upon their products.

Phantoms in the machine: GM corn spreads to Mexico
MARIE-MONIQUE ROBIN
July 3, 2010

I LANDED in Oaxaca, Mexico, in October 2006. Nestled in the heart of a lush landscape of green mountains, the city is considered one of the jewels of the country’s tourist industry. I was here, however, to investigate contaminated corn.

On November 29, 2001, the scientific journal Nature had published a study that created a stir and drew heavy fire from the St Louis headquarters of North American multinational agricultural corporation Monsanto – manufacturer of the world’s best-selling herbicide, Roundup, and the world’s leading producer of GMOs (genetically modified organisms). Signed by David Quist and Ignacio Chapela, two biologists at the University of California, Berkeley, it found that criollo (traditional) corn in Oaxaca had been contaminated by Roundup Ready and Bt genes. (Bacillus thuringiensis is a bacterium that produces a protein toxic to some insects. The gene inside the bacterium – the Bt gene – is added to seeds such as corn to create genetically modified crops.)

The news was particularly surprising because in 1998 Mexico had declared a moratorium on transgenic corn crops in order to preserve the extraordinary biodiversity of the plant, whose genetic cradle was Mexico. Grown since at least 5000BC, corn was the basic food for the Maya and Aztec peoples, who worshiped it as a sacred plant.

Travelling around the indigenous communities of Oaxaca, I encountered everywhere women drying magnificent ears of corn coloured pale yellow, white, red, violet, black, or an astonishing midnight blue. ”In the Oaxaca region alone, we have more than 150 local varieties,” said Secundino, a Zapotec Indian who was harvesting white corn by hand. ”This variety, for example, is excellent for making tortillas. Look at this ear: it has a very good size and fine kernels, so I’ll save it to plant next year.”

”You never buy seeds from outside?”

”No. When I have a problem, I exchange with a neighbour: I give him ears for him to eat and he gives me seeds. It’s old-fashioned barter.”

”Do you always make tortillas with local corn?”

”Yes, always,” he said with a smile. ”It’s more nourishing, because it’s of much better quality than industrial corn. Besides, it’s healthier, because we farm without chemical products.”

”Industrial corn” means the 6 million tonnes of corn that flood in every year from the United States, 40 per cent of which is transgenic (modified by the introduction of genetic material from another species).

”Look,” said Secundino, holding out in his hand like a gift a magnificent violet ear. ”This corn was my ancestors’ favourite.”

”It existed before the Spanish conquest?”

”Yes, and now there is another conquest.”

”What’s the new conquest?”

”The transgenic conquest, which wants to destroy our traditional corn so industrial corn can dominate. If that happens, we will become dependent on multinational corporations for our seeds. And we will be forced to buy their fertilisers and their insecticides, because otherwise their corn won’t grow. Unlike ours, which grows very well without chemical products.”

IGNACIO Chapela, one of the authors of the Nature study, agreed to meet me at Sproul Plaza on the Berkeley campus. ”Small Mexican farmers,” he said ”are very conscious of the stakes raised by transgenic contamination, because corn is not just their basic food but a cultural symbol.”

It was an October Sunday in 2006, and the huge campus was deserted. Only a police car drifted by like a damned soul. ”That’s for me,” said Chapela. ”I’ve been closely watched since this affair started, especially when there’s a camera.” When I looked incredulous, he went on: ”You want proof? Come with me.” We drove to the top of a hill overlooking San Francisco Bay. As we walked towards the lookout point, we saw the same police car, parked conspicuously at the side of the road.

”How did you find out that Mexican corn was contaminated?” I asked, rather disturbed. Read More

Best Dinner Partner

Last month I had the best company and dinner partner ever…my son who is a chef at The American Club…a family club for American expats living and working in Hong Kong.  Because employees and their families are not allowed to fraternize with the members, made do with some of the best restaurants in Hong Kong.  As we made our way through courses of a meal, Josh would explain what to eat when and how.  He would explain how a dish was made and why.  The best cooking lessons ever.  We treated ourselves to a Japanese fusion sushi restaurant with a young very creative chef…a friend of my son’s…who presented us with dishes I had never seen before.  A close follow-up was a Korean restaurant that featured Waygu beef that melted in your mouth.  A dining experience almost as good as the three months we spent with Josh when he was a chef in Manhattan.

The American Club has two sites…one a Country Club in an outlying area of the island, which we visited by bus, and the Town Club located at the top of a Hong Kong high-rise…which I did not get to visit on this trip…but maybe on the next one.

But all good things usually come to an end and after 12 days I left Josh to his job and his high-rise and took a short flight to my next destination…Bangkok Thailand…and to visit another son, Doug, who lives with his Thai wife on Koh Samui.  Having already visited my oldest son, Greg, in Las Vegas, I have such a terrible job…making the rounds to visit my kids! 🙂

Costillas de Puerco en Salsa Verde

I have a cleaning lady come to my apartment twice a month to mop up the polvo (diesel dust and pollen) from my floors and shake the rugs. She also will give me a cooking lesson for a few extra pesos. Last week she showed me how to make this:

Costillas de Puerco con Salsa Verde (Pork Ribs with Green Sauce)
Ingredients:
Several pounds pork ribs 2-3 inches long
Couple pounds tomatillos
Lots of chopped onion & garlic
Salt to taste
Jalepeno peppers to taste (3-4 for a large batch depending on how hot they are and whether they are deveined and de-seeded)
Bunch of fresh cilantro

Boil ribs in pot of water until tender (about 2 hours) Chop up other ingredientes and put in blender with some of the rib broth. Strain blender ingredients to get out tomatillo seeds. Saute blender ingredients in pan with a little olive oil. Add rest of rib broth to ingredients in pan and simmer down. Add ribs and simmer again for half hour or more. Amounts depend on how many ribs you have. I had a 3-4 kilos or more of ribs and couple kilos of tomatillos, one onion, head of garlic. Sauce is kind of soupy but you can simmer it down. Better 1-2 days after cooking. Will serve several people. Sorry amounts are loosy goosey…

You can make it with red sauce the same way only using Italian red tomatoes instead of the green tomatillos. Next time she will go the little market up on the hill with me and we’ll make Caldo de Res (beef soup).

Sheep Camp Bread To NY Times?

I’ll bet anything this recipe came from an Irish sheep camp much like my father’s. The recipe’s originator, Jim Lahey of the Sullivan Street Bakery in New York ought to give you a hint.

The easiest bread recipe ever

By Gail Jokerst

February 18, 2009 edition Christian Science Monitor

Every so often a recipe crosses my path that is too good to keep to myself. If it’s straightforward to prepare and success follows, I spread the word to food-loving friends from Boston to California. Which is exactly what happened recently after I tasted a memorable rustic bread at my sister-in-law Ruth’s home in Wisconsin. With just four ingredients – flour, water, salt, and a measly 1/4 teaspoon of yeast – it could certainly be classified as basic. But it was also remarkable for its flavor, textures, and the unusual method used to make it. Moist and chewy inside with a crisp crust that shattered when I bit into it, the bread reminded me of the best Italian and French loaves I’ve bought from big-city bakeries. Only this creation came from my sister-in-law’s oven, her Dutch oven to be precise.

No-Knead bread

3 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon granular yeast

1-3/4 teaspoons salt

1-1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons water

Cornmeal for sprinkling

Combine flour, yeast, and salt in a large bowl. Stir in water till the mixture is blended. The dough will be loose and wet. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rise at room temperature 12 to 19 hours– the longer the better.

Flour a work surface and turnout the dough on it. Flour your hands and sprinkle the top of the dough lightly with flour. Turn the dough over on itself a couple times and then let it rest 15 minutes. Form the dough into a ball using as little flour as possible. The dough will seem somewhat fluid but it will form a ball. (It’s tempting to use a lot of flour here but don’t. The dough should stay moist.)

Place the dough seam-side down on a smooth-surfaced towel sprinkled with cornmeal. Lightly dust the top of the dough with flour or cornmeal, then cover it. Let the dough rise till doubled (about 2 or 3 hours).

At least a half hour before the dough has finished rising, place a Dutch oven with a lid in the oven and preheat the oven to 450 degrees F. Remove the pot from the oven and carefully turn over the dough and place it in the Dutch oven. Then shake the pot to distribute the dough evenly. Replace the lid and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the lid and bake another 10 to 15 minutes or until the top is golden and the loaf sounds hollow when tapped.

– Adapted from The New York Times

    Cont from Christian Science Monitor:

When Ruth was ready to make this loaf, I kept her company in the kitchen as she measured the ingredients into a bowl. Then I watched as she mixed them all together to form a shaggy mass that did not appear to have a promising future. Unlike most bread doughs, which are kneaded till satiny, this dough was neither smooth to the touch nor kneaded. In fact, it was stickier than any dough either of us had ever handled.

Although tempted to add more flour and yeast, we resisted the urge to obey years of bread-baking instincts and faithfully followed the remaining directions. We let the dough rise overnight as instructed. Then we formed it into a ball, waited while it rose again, and baked it inside a steaming-hot Dutch oven.

When we lifted the lid 30 minutes later, we were amazed to see a gorgeous, golden round loaf sporting professional looking splits across the crown. In another 10 minutes, we pulled the boule from the oven and listened to the crust crackle as it cooled on the counter. Read More

Rice Tsunami

The price of rice has sky-rocketed in Thailand to such a degree that gangs have taken to raiding farmers’ rice fields. Some farmers have taken to sleeping in the fields to guard against thefts. One economic advisor on CNN Asia has called it a “rice tsunami.” He went on to say that this has been coming on for some time but people chose to ignore the signs…land crunch…draught…and other factors that are world-wide. And even though there is a draught in the north, local officials in Chiang Mai have decided to release more water from the dams to accommodate revelers during Sangkran next week (the water festival) much to the dismay of the farmers. More on the significance of Sangkran (cleansing ceremony) to the Thais later when I report on being drenched by water with buckets, water guns and hoses…some of it ice water provided by the bars! It’s the hot season so you can imagine how a sudden douse of ice water feels on a hot sweaty body!

Dinner From The Street

Tonight I went out to the street and bought my dinner which I brought back to my room to eat. First, a Papaya Salad with only one little red chili and it’s still hot! 80 cents. The two sticks with small pieces of what we would call pork bacon cooked over coals. 30 cents. Then on to another cart with steamed hot corn which she cut off the ears for me and bagged. 30 cents. Then around the corner to a soup cart where he bagged up delicious hot broth in one bag, my choice of noodles with bits of chicken and leafy green vegetables in another bag, a little bag of chili vinegar and another little bag of chili. 25 cents. For dessert a huge mango for 40 cents. These are Bangkok prices however food prices are going up all over now. On Koh Samui where my son Doug lives, this food would would have been less…except for the soup.  In the countryside even less.

This is enough food for two people. The soup filled up my bowl twice. I will save my papaya salad and mango for breakfast.

Another cost: 11 plastic bags not counting the two little ones with spices.