Amy’s International School

Last Friday I went to the Yew Chung International School of Beijing with Amy, my daughter-in-law.

Seventy five years ago an optimistic young woman, Madame Tsang Chor-hang, barely graduated from a teacher’s school, emerged from a calamitous time in China and founded Yew Chung in 1932. It grew into the Yew Chung International School in Hong Kong and then expanded to Shanghai in 1993 and later to Beijing in 1995. Now, Yew Chung International School Silicon Valley in Mountain View California emphasizes E-Learning which means that there are now no longer any geographical constraints to learning.

The director says that “Yew Chung has pioneered an exciting new paradigm in international education that leads students to an inner transformation whereby they become both Eastern and Western. There are now massive opportunities for improving the human condition but we need to develop new concepts, new instincts and new politics of decision-making whereby we are first a global citizen, second a national citizen, and third a local citizen.”

The web site goes on to say that global education emphasizes global awareness. Teachers and administrators, who are informed and committed, empower students to realize they can make a difference…to go out into the world with a “common purpose and a deep commitment to resolving global issues confronting the planet.”

Wow…!

Students have to have a foreign passport. The school offers the International General Certificate of Secondary Education affiliated with Cambridge to students in years 10 and 11. It offers the International Baccalaureate to students in years 12 and 13.

Amy teaches modern history to 9th, 10th and 11th level students…mostly children of business people, embassy workers and workers in other organizations. The students come from all over the world…her 11th year history class that I sat in on had an Indian, Singaporean, Korean, an Italian-Chinese, a Malay, an American Chinese, a Caucasian American, a French and a Thai.

I was truly amazed. Both by the students and by Amy. Amy is an excellent teacher…giving energetic narrative to complicated historical events…and the motivations behind them. The students were even more amazing. So well-trained…so eager and ready to learn. All classes are small and taught in English…not the first language for most of these students. Mandarin is a mandatory subject and all students become bilingual in Mandarin/English.

The staff is truly global. Examples: Dr. Sandy Pike is the secondary coordinator and biology teacher. Her father was a British Medical Officer who lived in Hong Kong, England and New Zealand. She got her degree in biology in Hong Kong, then did 18 months of missionary work and teaching English in the bush in Zimbabwe. She left the mission a few days before it was overun by rebels when all her friends, teachers and students were murdered. She stayed in South Africa for awhile after she met her husband (the physics teacher) and they have taught all over the world…Africa, New Zealand, Papua New Guinea and now Beijing. One science teacher is a white South African who has been on staff for 4 years. One teacher is a Black from Ireland (not black Irish), another is a Chinese-Canadian, several other Canadians, a few Caucasian Americans, some from Australia and New Zealand, Koreans…the list goes on.

A dream job in a dream school.

Beijing

In the airport, while waiting for my luggage to show up, I scanned the crowd of people in the waiting area and had no trouble spotting Josh…three heads above all others. Eye candy for me! This is the first time I have seen him since we left our sublet in Brooklyn in January 2006!

So now I am ensconsed in Josh’s high-rise two bedroom apartment in “Lido” which is a relatively new neighborhood off the 4th ring road (there are 6 ring roads) in the neighborhood of the Lido (Holiday Inn) Hotel on the east side…not far from the airport. Beijing has 15.4 million of China’s 1.3 billion people! But traffic is relatively minimal here and not much honking…and as in most of China (and most of the rest of the world for that matter) there are no lanes and we get a real kick out of watching the intersection below from our 11th floor windows. Turning from no-lanes into absolutely the wrong “lanes”, they are so hesitant…so careful not to bung up their new new cars. (Josh says that 6,000 new cars appear on the roads in Beijing every day!) Every few minutes all cars stop…tied up in the middle of the intersection…until someone moves and it begins to unravel. No road rage. No one is upset that someone has turned in front of them. There could be a lesson here for the U.S. where everyone expects the rules to be followed and noses get bent out of shape if not.

This part of the city where many expats live is a striking contrast to the hutong near Tianamen Square in the center of the city where I stayed last time I was here in 2004. I found french pastry and great coffee in the Parisian Baguette up the street and the citibank ATM was very generous with me.

Waiting for Amy to get home from teaching in her school, Josh and I discuss Chinese commodities. I had lugged a duffel full of bath sheets and body cream to Beijing. The towels cost almost a $100 each here. I bought six at a Macy’s sale in Portland for $89. Travelers expect luxuries to be ridiculously cheap here. But, Josh says, goods made in China are shipped directly to foreign markets. The locals don’t get them…unless they are traded back into China which results in a very high price…like the towels. Nuts.

Josh took me to a great Korean restaurant my first night here while Amy finished preparing for her last day of school before the Chinese New Year holiday break. Then he turned on the little green and white froggy whose ears blow steam next to my bed. We are living on the edge of a desert, Josh says, so we keep the humidifiers on.

Guangzhou

Arrived in Guangzhou (pronounced guan-jo) from Hong Kong yesterday on a sleek new train. I had no idea where the baggage area was. Had paid as much for the baggage as I did my ticket! Then, as I emerged from the immigration check area, from out of nowhere came a man with my two checked bags. Then luckily headed down the escalators with a duffel, a backpack, a carry on and my personal bag without turning head over heels.

Hundreds of people with bags, buckets and sacks full of I don’t know what were sitting and squating on the dirty floor…trying to get to their families during Chinese New Year. Remains of food, paper and boxes were strewn everywhere. Apparently they had been here awhile waiting for trains further inland that had been canceled by the snowstorms. I had forgotten how the Chinese throw their garbage on the ground to be swept up by the next little old lady or man with a broom and shovel. Had also forgotten how loud and aggresive the language sounds. I fleetingly wondered how long it took Josh and Amy to get used to China.

No taxis to be seen. Apparently you have to walk down the street from the station to find the taxis but before I could do that I was approached by a man who offered taxi service. This little man took off, practically running, with my bags as if they weighed nothing. He never looked back as he left me scrambling to keep up several yards behind. But his car was no taxi. I suspect I paid handsomely for the cross town trip to the Hotel Elan. But I didn’t care. No way could I carry all those bags all the way down the street. And he knew it. Travel Tip:  Walk out to the street and get a normal taxi with a meter. On the way he pointed out all the places I could buy different goods. I didn’t tell him I wasn’t here to buy anything.

Guangzhou, in this southern part of China called Canton, where most people speak Cantonese-not Mandarin, is a comparatively rich wholesale marketing area. Huge multi-level buildings harbor the latest trade fairs with goods made all over China. Nice hotels abound for buyers from all over the world. Down the street from me is a 6 story building with nothing but underwear! I thought to myself that the market niche for designers could be unending in China but they just copy.  To get to the underwear building you cross the street through a huge underground tunnel with more underwear. Turn a corner and you can continue down the street, underground, for as far as the eye can see…all underwear! And that is just my neighborhood!

My hotel was listed in the Lonely Planet guidebook as a medium-priced one. No more cheap Chinese guesthouses with no heat for me in the winter! This is a brand new one, cheaply made, tucked in between noodle and tea shops on a busy side-street. It is a smallish boutique hotel, art deco style…roomy with all the latest bathroom fixtures…but best of all free WiFi. It has all the amenities…hot water kettle, refrigerator, safe, queen sized bed with 4 down pillows and blinding white sheets and comforter. I am going into some detail because this would be a 4 star hotel in the states. I am paying $40 a night with an elaborate buffet breakfast for no extra charge.

It is raining and yukky outside. Last night the ATM at the Bank of China around the corner was out of cash. Travel Tip: Apparently you have to go early in the day so this morning I scored some yuan. So aside from eating at an open noodle shop next door where I am starkly reminded how the Chinese spit their bones and other detritus out on the table beside their plates and bowls in front of them, or on the floor, I am staying inside to nurse a brutal dripping head cold.

I am discovering how much China has changed in the two years since I was last here. Where before there were maybe 4-6 TV channels there are now 70. One is listed as English language but only part of the time and then it’s full of propaganda. But you can watch dubbed U.S. sports events!

With luck I fly out to Beijing tomorrow night…30 miles to get outside the city to the airport.

Happy Thanksgiving From Beijing

Email from my son who is chef de cuisine in one of the restaurants in the Hilton Hotel in Beijing…to his friends and family:

On Nov 19, 2007, at 5:24 PM, Ryan Goetz wrote:

Happy Thanksgiving!

I write this now because in two days I am fully booked. I run a T.G menu for 4 days and will not have a chance to come up for air until next week. I ranked the #1 place to have thanksgiving in Beijing. It was not hard to beat out the American cafe called steak and eggs and then HOOTERS. Yes, they have thanksgiving at Hooters in Beijing! It is not a very long list of American restaurants in Beijing, but it is Distinguished!!! I never thought that my name and the boob and chicken wing restaurant would be named in the same article, but anything is possible in China!! So, if your jonesing for some Turkey then try hooters, because I am fully booked. I guess that is something to be thankful for.

On another note, Malcolm is at home and doing well!! He went for a walk with Phil, who flew to Hawaii to see his dad. He is a tough guy and even with a portion of his heart dead, he is still walking around. Phil says he is out of the woods and is being very “normal”. He is an amazing man! So that is another thing to be thankful for!

Amy and I have booked 10 days in Vietnam for xmas vacation, shopping, history and some warm weather. Beijing is really dry and cold!! There is snow on the Wall already. I am researching skiing in Japan. They are some great resorts there. Some in the North, near Sapporo and some right outside Tokyo. Lift tickets are around 4800 yen or $us 44 a day for 32 lifts !!! They say Japan has some of the driest powder in the world. I plan to check in out over a long weekend in Feb or March. They had the winter Olympics in Sapporo in 1972. They were supposed to have it in 1940, but the Indo-Japanese war took them off the list and then world war 2 which took Germany and Japan off for 1944. I wonder if we will lose the votes from the I.O.C. because of Iraq?? Probably not. These are the things you learn when you are married to a Historian! We are a great Trivial Pursuit team!

I know some of you have been planning vacations. I will have some time between now and April, but March to September are out of the question for me and anyone thinking of coming to Beijing this July- August is Out Of Their Minds!! The Olympics are going to turn this place into a Zoo. I am planning a wine trip (and Surfing) to Australia in the Fall, their Spring, in 2008 with a possible stop over in Bali. Anyone interested in Bali??

Cheers and Thanks,
Josh

Contemplating Leaving

My one year visa in Mexico expires August 8. After visiting my son Greg in Las Vegas I should be back in Oregon by the middle of August…driving from Oaxaca to Queretaro to pick up my friend Patty who will be my traveling companion along the way. I have mixed feelings of course. Returning to my home country will be the measure of things great and small. In the fall I will return to Asia to visit son Josh and his wife Amy in Beijing and son Doug and his wife Luk in Thailand.

In the meantime I am reading my irreverent, indepensible, if tattered, “The World’s Most Dangerous Places” by the consummate journalist Robert Young Pelton. After Asia, maybe a visit to Syria? Or…? Then maybe a return to Oaxaca to get that language down after all.

A regular columnist for National Geographic Adventure, Pelton produces and hosts a TV series for Discovery and the Travel Channel and appears frequently as an expert on current affairs and travel safety on CNN, FOX and other networks.

“The United States has a very comprehensive system of travel warnings,” says Pelton, “but conveniently overlooks the dangers within its own borders. Danger cannot be measured, only prepared against. The most dangerous thing in the world,” he says, “is ignorance.”

Welcome to Dangerous Places…”no walls, no barriers, no bull” it says in the preface. “With all the talk about survival and fascination with danger, why is it that people never admit that life is like watching a great movie and–pooof–the power goes off before we see the ending? It’s no big deal. Death doesn’t really wear a smelly cloak and carry a scythe…it’s more likely the attractive girl who makes you forget to look right before you cross that busy intersection in London…

It helps to look at the big picture when understanding just what might kill you and what won’t. It is the baby boomers’ slow descent into gray hair, brand-name drugs, reading glasses, and a general sense of not quite being as fast as they used to be that drives the survival thing. Relax: You’re gonna die. Enjoy life, don’t fear it.

To some, life is the single most precious thing they are given and it’s only natural that they would invest every ounce of their being into making sure that every moment is glorious, productive, and safe. So does “living” mean sitting strapped into our Barca Lounger, medic at hand, 911 autodialer at the ready, carefully watching for low-flying planes? Or should you live like those folks who are into extreme, mean, ultimate adventure stuff…sorry that stuff may be fun to talk about at cocktail parties, but not really dangerous…not even half as dangerous as riding in a cab on the graveyard shift in Karachi.

[A big part of] living is about adventure and adventure is about elegantly surfing the tenuous space between lobotomized serenity and splattered-bug terror and still being in enough pieces to share the lessons learned with your grandkids. Adventure is about using your brain, body and intellect to weave a few bright colors in the world’s dull, gray fabric…

The purpose of DP is to get your head screwed on straight, your sphincter unpuckered and your nose pointed in the right direction.”

I love it.

Dual Pricing

Found a hilarious travel article on Bootnall today about the luxury tax…or dual pricing for foreigners as it is called:

The Luxury Tax – Asia, Europe, South America
By: Adam Jeffries Schwartz
The following is a guide to how the luxury tax is levied, worldwide.

ASIA
China has the highest tax in the region! Charging a hundred times the regular price is typical. If you negotiate at all, they will stand two inches in front of your face, and scream You PAY, you PAY NOW.

Note: Exactly!!!
Read More

Largest Drug Raid in History…in Mexico

The LA Times reports today from MEXICO CITY — Authorities confiscated more than $200 million in U.S. currency from methamphetamine producers in one of this city’s ritziest neighborhoods, they said Friday, calling it the largest drug cash seizure in history.

The seizure reflected the vast scope of an illegal drug trade linking Asia, Mexico and the United States, officials said. Two of the seven people arrested Thursday at a faux Mediterranean villa in the Lomas de Chapultepec neighborhood were Chinese nationals.

The group was part of a larger drug-trafficking organization that imports “precursor chemicals” from companies in India and China for processing into methamphetamine in Mexican “super labs,” authorities said. The methamphetamine is eventually sold in the United States.

Bob, Josh and Luk In Bangkok

My son Josh is Chef de Cuisine of “One East On Third” in the Hilton Hotel in Beijing. He was sent by the Executive Chef to Bangkok last week to check out some restaurants there. Luk, a delightful Thai girl who is married to our son Doug, had been visiting Bob at his rental house south of Pattaya so Bob, took Luk with him to Bangkok to join Josh. (Doug is currently in Oregon and will return to Thailand in a couple weeks.) This was the first time Josh met his sister-in-law, Luk.

This is Bob’s description of the visit…made me salivate reading about the Thai food!

“Josh missed his scheduled flight to BKK so arrived one day late. I extended my stay to allow for an overlap. He had hotel and culinary related meetings but we shared a few meals and today roamed around Chatuchak Market which he seemed to enjoy.

Josh let me choose the restaurants. I was the tour guide. (Although Josh has been to Bangkok many times!) He ate his evening meals with the Hilton folks first night and his second night at the Four Seasons. I think they had steaks at the Hilton as Josh’s hierarchy wants him to offer more steaks at the restaurant. Steak apparently is in demand in Beijing.

When we went out I gave him the option of streetside or upscale. We settled on Jim Thompson’s restaurant on Soi Saladang (we ate there before.) Had pomolo salad, gai with lemongrass , shrimp in a coconut curry, a fish souffle and morning glory in oyster sauce. All quite arroy (delicious) except the chicken. Second day we ate at a sit down restaurant at Chatuchak Market. Had a spicy Thai salad, fresh spring roles and sticky rice with mango and coconut milk. Josh enjoyed the cuisine.

At Chatuchak he purchased many items of Thai motif as his restaurant is going to do some things with a Thai theme. He would buy one item and then plans on having it reproduced in China. I think he wanted to buy more but was limited by what he was capable of carrying.

He appears to be doing well. Both he and Amy, (his wife did not make this trip) are apparently adapting better to cultural deviation. He says that Amy’s sudden unemployment left gaps that have resolved with her new job teaching history in an international school. They will return to Thailand in May to spend time in BKK again and then venture down to Samui where Doug and Luk live.

Luk was traveling with this huge suitcase (with wheels fortunately) that she could not lift. When going to BKK she insisted on high heels that were the stilletto variety with a single small strap across the forefoot. If you can recall BKK’s sidewalks and then picture her trying to get on and off skytrains and navigating all on the cobblestones and drains etc. Also I ended up with the suitcase as well as booking her hotel room. She remains pleasant company and generates many laughs.

Josh and Luk

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Seeing Red Over Mao in Alhambra

Values in China today are only carried forward by the culture largely as a result of the destruction of ethical and civic standards wrought by Mao during the Cultural Revolution. In other words, in my experience, there is generally no honor given in China today for verbal or written contracts and the visitor will find him or herself at the mercy of Chinese pragmatism.

In China today portraits of Mao are everywhere and due to the controlled press few Chinese know the truth of their own modern history. And I am horrified when I hear “Maoism” being bandied about…even here in Oaxaca Mexico!

To understand how this came about, to understand the ability of the Chinese to dupe Westerners and to understand the anger of the Chinese community in Alhambra over the hanging of Warhol-like images of Mao you can read the 1995 “Mao: The Unknown Story,” an 832-page biography of Mao written by the husband and wife team of historians, Jon Halliday and Jung Chang who herself was a Red Guard during the Revolution. It depicts Mao Zedong, the former paramount leader of China and Chairman of the Communist Party of China, as being responsible for mass murder (upwards of 30-70 million people) on a scale greater than that committed under the rule of Adolf Hitler or Joseph Stalin.
Read More

Watching The Chinese

A local newspaper in Borneo reported another logging agreement. China had just placed a rush order for 800,000 cubic meters of wood to be used in the construction of its sports facilities for the 2008 Olympic Games. Authorities are planning on cutting as much as four to five million acres of trees in the future.

In other news, China needs the Sudan’s oil and gas so it is blocking the UN from sending peacekeepers to help stop the genocide. On top of that China is forgiving the Sudan it’s debt and lending, interest free, money to the President of Sudan to build a personal palace…among other sickening things.