Hong Kong Two

After a week here, I leave Hong Kong this morning on the 1.5 hour long train ride to Guangzhou China. Hong Kong is Hong Kong. The mainland is China according to the locals here who needless to say do not consider themselves part of China even though China does.

I will be in Guangzhou two nights and then hopefully fly out on an Air China 777 to Beijing 8:00 pm on flight 1302.on the 30th. The news this morning is not good. A cold front has brought snow across much of China and apparently the Guanzhou train station is a mess with people trying to get out to visit relatives for Chinese New Year. Glad I’m taking the plane but even then weather conditions may delay my flight. The chinese parliament met yesterday in an emergency session to assess the lack of coal and electricity needed to keep the country functioning. Oh great! So if I don’t show up in Beijing 11pm, where my son son Josh and his wife Amy will pick me up at the airport, hopefully interested parties will know where to start looking!

I will miss my little neighborhood in Kowloon…Cameron Street between Nathan and Chatham. There is everything I need here….interesting winding streets to explore. A coffee shop owned by a German…noodle shops galore. 7-11’s every block.. Starbucks up on Kimberly street where the taxi driver says I can find lively nightlife. Right! McDonald’s open 24 hours and next door to them a KFC…not that I go to either place. There are sales galore in anticipation of Chinese New Year but I have no room in my backpack for one more thing until I unload onto Josh in Beijing.

I will miss my Philippino housemaid who has taken good care of me at the Star Guesthouse. Her cubicle here in the guesthouse is no bigger than the smallest closet. Her daughter back in the Philippines, a nurse, is trying to get a job in California.

I listen to Bloomberg financial channel to find that markets are down in the U.S. and Europe but up everywhere in Asia except Japn. I listen to Al Jazeera, that I consider the best English language news channel in the world, while tending to my email on my laptop. And make left-over business calls to the U.S. on Skype. Yesterday, I hear about ex-president Suharto’s death. Good riddance to a man who was never conviced of bilking his country …siphoning off billions of dollars to his family and friends….his daughter’s plea to forgive her father for all his mistakes a little too late. But many people in his country are reportedly very forgiving…and still respect this former general for miraculously pulling his country into the modern age economically. Hard to believe he will be given a state funeral. This morning I listened to a Serbian tennis champ from Australia proclaim that his father always believed in him more than he did in himself. Inspiring.

Every morning I cross the street to an all night noodle shop and have delicious chicken congee (rice pooridge) and scrambled eggs with tiny bits of meat mixed in. Yesterday I dined on dim sum which was really no different than that found at the old Fong Chong Company in Portland, OR.

This morning some crazy traveler next door, probably some damn person from the Americas in jetlag, woke me up at 3 am with his TV blaring. So I fled across the street to coffee and early breakfast. “You are here a long time,” I said to the same waiter who was here yesterday afternoon. “Yes, I work 16 hours a day,” he said. “No money!” Then I remembered an article in the English language Hong Kong Magazine that said that, in this very expensive city, the average salary for a waiter is about U.S. $780.00 a month. On the other hand a retail sales rep with just one year of experience receives U.S $1500 a month. In an upscale restaurant there is a 10% service charge but is rarely distributed among the service workers. So waiters live on tips.

The streets here are very clean. People smoke while walking on the street since smoking is not allowed indoors (except for homes) Every few yards there is a large “ashtray” fixed atop a garbage bin. There is a lot of English spoken here, left over from the British occupation, and is a comfortable place for a westerner to transition to mainland China..if you live long enough to keep from being run over by a taxi or knocked off the sidewlk by the fast-walking locals who don’t seem to have the patience to deal with gawking tourists. New York all over again.

Hong Kong

I did it! It’s 9pm January 22 here now. Never going to take long 20 hour plane flight again! Will stop off somewhere…anywhere…Hawaii…Figi…anywhere! Fast efficient train to Kowloon and then taxi to the Star Guesthouse on Cameron Rd. 6th floor of a big building. I stayed just down the street at the Lee Garden before…same owner…friendly Charlie Chan. My room is just big enough for a single bed and TV…and small bathroom…and broadband internet access. U.S. $40 per night but it works just fine…friendly helpful staff. Access to refrigerator, microwave and hot water kettle. I will feel at home here for 8 days until I take the train to Guangzhou and then plane to Beijing where son Josh and his wife Amy will pick me up at the Beijing Airport.

Tomorrow I will find a computer store and buy hardware for Josh’s Mac computer. And apply for a China visa…double entry…30 days each. The visa is about 6 times more expensive for U.S. and UK tourists than for others. Sliding scale I guess. Similar in some post-colonial African countries.

Tonight, sushi across the street.

Xmas in Las Vegas 2007

Spent last weekend with son #1 in Las Vegas. (He shines so bright I call him son. Sorry, my mother used to say that to the kids all the time.) Great time with sushi and a Lynard Skynard concert. It was my xmas since the kids are scattered from hell to breakfast….”kids” being 34 (Beijing), 38 (Thailand) and 40 years old (Las Vegas)!

Disneyland For Adults I call it. Many go there to let their freak flag fly. The brand message is “Whatever happens in Las Vegas, stays in Las Vegas.” This includes your money. No other city like it unless it’s Macau China. Unless you live there. Most locals ignore the strip. The morning after is referred to as the double hangover…one for money and the other for alcohol.

It so happened that my visit there overlapped with an Aussie friend that I met and traveled with in Laos and Thailand. Such excitement because we thought we would never see each other again! Greg took me to the hotel she was staying in. As I walked down a hall to the elevators I’ll never forget seeing her running toward me with her arms outstretched!

UN Denounces Discrimination

UN Denounces Racism in Mexico

Prensa Latina
Mexico, Dec 11

The Mexican chapter of the UN High Commissioner for Human Rights revealed on Tuesday that indigenous women in the states of Guerrero, Chiapas and Oaxaca suffer sexual, work, educational and health discrimination.

A statement by UN representative Louis Arbour recommended the adoption of legislative, administrative, budgetary and judicial measures to overcome this situation.

Arbour explained that racism and sexism are great work loads for indigenous women, as well as is immigration of women to farm fields in northern Mexico and the United States and the abandonment of widows and minors.

Cases of sexual abuse or physical mistreatment by teachers, as well as discrimination in indigenous school shelters, have been reported among the child population, he noted.

The UN body added that regarding health, this population segment is also hit by malnutrition, mother and child mortality and an increasing presence of HIV AIDS.

“If I Should Fall From Grace With God”

I used to play Shane McGowan and The Pogues…turn it up…and do housework. The kids, when they were little, would groan, plug their ears and beg me to turn it off.

Shane’s growl is nearly unintelligible so these are some of the lyrics from this nationalist song from Ireland:

“If I should fall from grace with god
Where no doctor can relieve me
If Im buried neath the sod
But the angels wont receive me

Let me go, boys
Let me go, boys
Let me go down in the mud
Where the rivers all run dry

This land was always ours
Was the proud land of our fathers
It belongs to us and them
Not to any of the others”

My Day

Well, I had quite a day yesterday. My son Doug, visiting me for the last three weeks from Thailand where he lives, woke me at 1 am. We finished getting his banking set up on the internet. Wrote up the family info and took it to Kinkos to get it plastisized. Told him to give a copy to his wife in Thailand and that if anything happened to him that she was to show it to someone who reads English so we could be contacted. Got him set up with frequent flyers..and printed out his boarding pass.

I dropped him off at the curb for his flight back to Thailand, kissed him goodbye, and drove off elatedly. Free as a bird! Went to downtown Portland for a coffee. Then to shop for some clothes at Nordstroms. Everything made in China with crappy fabric and horrible prices. It was either that or high-end designer clothes with even more atrocious prices.

So I went to a movie…”The Darjeeling Limited.” Sneaky good…touching story about three brothers…set on a train in India…and their mother, played by Angelica Huston, who had become a nun in a Himalayan monastery. (This I totally understood!!!) The twenty something boys were whining about her taking off and leaving them and not even going to their father’s funeral. Ha! She finally told them to forget about it and get on with their lives. In other words, grow up. Very instructive for me, I tell you!!!

Then I bought some shoes and went to another store where I had a great conversation with an older woman who waited on me….me laughing at the prices…me telling her the cost of one piece was the price of a plane ticket to BKK…she telling me about living in Singapore when she was young and how she was so shocked by the ostentatiousness of America when she returned…we agreeing that Americans should travel to a third world country at least once in their lives. We ended up laughing about most of the women’s pants out now were low-cut… just the thing for women with poom pooey tummies!

Then I went to another movie ($8.00 tickets) called “I’m Not There,” the creatively constructed story about shape-shifter Bob Dylan amid the insanity of celebrity. Unconventional filmmaker, Todd Haynes, (who wrote the story while living in Portland BTW) cast 6 or 7 different actors (the best one a woman played by Cate Blanchette) who all played the changing personas of Dylan. The very young Dylan was played by a very young black kid (Dylan was supposed to be 11 years old) who claimed to be Woodie Guthrie. Dylan’s name was never mentioned and names were all changed but you knew who the characters were…Joan Baez played by Julianne Moore. If you are familiar with Dylan you will be intrigued by it…much of it ironic…tongue in cheek. Rolling Stone says that Dylan surprisingly gave his permission, through a third party, to use his songs both his own recordings and those performed by others. We are left with no better understanding of Dylan than we had before seeing the movie. That’s as Dylan would want it, I think…he hated being corralled…defined by others…especially by the niggard media. You’d have to see it 50 times to catch all the references of the times and then, unless you were a Dylan freak and were alive in the 60’s, you’d miss. If you are interested, musician/songwriter Peter Stone Brown chronicles the historical packaging of Dylan in a Counterpunch article.

Then I had sushi for dinner…including wonderful ice-cold Uni (sea urchin) from the California coast . Finally paid $16 to get my car out of the parking garage! I’m still in sticker shock after not living in the States for most of the last 6 years!

So that was my splurge. I am new again.

The Sad End Of Mexican Criollo Corn?

NAFTA and Biotech: Twin Horsemen of the Ag Apocalypse
The Last Days of Mexican Corn

By JOHN ROSS
Mexico City.

The single, spindly seven foot-tall cornstalk spiring up from the planter box outside a prominent downtown hotel here was filling out with new “elotes” (sweet corn) to the admiration of passer-bys, some of whom even paused to pat the swelling ears with affection. Down the centuries most of the population of this megalopolis migrated here from the countryside at one time or another over the course of the past 500 years and inside every “Chilango” (Mexico City resident) lurks an inner campesino.

But the solitary stalk, sewn by an urban coalition of farmers and ecologists under the banner of “No Hay Pais Sin Maiz” (“There Is No Country Without Corn”) in planter boxes outside the downtown hotels, museums, government palaces and other historical monuments can just as easily be seen as a signifier for the fragile state of survival of Mexican corn.

As the year ripens into deep autumn, the corn harvest is pouring in all over Mexico. Out in Santa Cruz Tanaco in the Purepecha Indian Sierra of Michoacan state, the men mow their way down the rows much as their fathers and their fathers before did, snapping off the ears and tossing them into the “tshundi” basket on their backs.

In the evenings, the families will gather around the fire and shuck the “granos” from the cobs into buckets and carry them down to the store to trade for other necessities of life. It is the way in Tanaco in this season of plenitude just as it is in the tens of thousands of tiny farming communities all over Mexico where 29 per cent of the population still lives. But it is a way of life that is fading precipitously. Some say that these indeed may be the last days of Mexican corn.
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Happy Thanksgiving From Beijing

Email from my son who is chef de cuisine in one of the restaurants in the Hilton Hotel in Beijing…to his friends and family:

On Nov 19, 2007, at 5:24 PM, Ryan Goetz wrote:

Happy Thanksgiving!

I write this now because in two days I am fully booked. I run a T.G menu for 4 days and will not have a chance to come up for air until next week. I ranked the #1 place to have thanksgiving in Beijing. It was not hard to beat out the American cafe called steak and eggs and then HOOTERS. Yes, they have thanksgiving at Hooters in Beijing! It is not a very long list of American restaurants in Beijing, but it is Distinguished!!! I never thought that my name and the boob and chicken wing restaurant would be named in the same article, but anything is possible in China!! So, if your jonesing for some Turkey then try hooters, because I am fully booked. I guess that is something to be thankful for.

On another note, Malcolm is at home and doing well!! He went for a walk with Phil, who flew to Hawaii to see his dad. He is a tough guy and even with a portion of his heart dead, he is still walking around. Phil says he is out of the woods and is being very “normal”. He is an amazing man! So that is another thing to be thankful for!

Amy and I have booked 10 days in Vietnam for xmas vacation, shopping, history and some warm weather. Beijing is really dry and cold!! There is snow on the Wall already. I am researching skiing in Japan. They are some great resorts there. Some in the North, near Sapporo and some right outside Tokyo. Lift tickets are around 4800 yen or $us 44 a day for 32 lifts !!! They say Japan has some of the driest powder in the world. I plan to check in out over a long weekend in Feb or March. They had the winter Olympics in Sapporo in 1972. They were supposed to have it in 1940, but the Indo-Japanese war took them off the list and then world war 2 which took Germany and Japan off for 1944. I wonder if we will lose the votes from the I.O.C. because of Iraq?? Probably not. These are the things you learn when you are married to a Historian! We are a great Trivial Pursuit team!

I know some of you have been planning vacations. I will have some time between now and April, but March to September are out of the question for me and anyone thinking of coming to Beijing this July- August is Out Of Their Minds!! The Olympics are going to turn this place into a Zoo. I am planning a wine trip (and Surfing) to Australia in the Fall, their Spring, in 2008 with a possible stop over in Bali. Anyone interested in Bali??

Cheers and Thanks,
Josh