Crack Down on Mexico’s Crackdowns

Last Saturday, in Oaxaca City’s Centro, I watched the 9th MegaMarch enter the Plaza de la Danza. They had walked five miles in sweltering heat from the airport. The teachers and their supporters are letting people know their demands are not over by a long shot.

Today the respected Christian Science Monitor posted this article online:

President Calderón must improve human rights by reining in abusive police.

By Robert M. Press
OAXACA, MEXICO – Before he was tied up, thrown in the back of a truck, and tortured in prison, Gonzalo heard words he’ll never forget. “The poor will always be poor and the rich will always be rich,” a police officer taunted. “So why don’t you go home and abandon your struggle.”
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What The Tourists Don’t See In Oaxaca

In December, Hilaria Cruz interviewed Dionisio.
Translation: Joy Turlo

Dionisio had gone to the demonstration in Oaxaca on the 25th of November. After the demonstration he and his friend Juan de Dios went to get something to eat, during which time confrontations started up between demonstrators and the Federal Preventive Police (PFP). Upon leaving the restaurant, they headed toward the downtown area, which had become filled with tear gas and smoke. When they saw a woman and her children overcome by tear gas, Dionisio stopped to help, while Juan de Dios photographed the situation around them, and that was when the two men were arrested.
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Learning Spanish Amid “False Normalcy”

Have been taking Spanish lessons in one of the local schools…Amigos del Sol. Three hours a day sitting in a chair. Only one other student in my classes so I can’t space out. Present, past and future. I have memorized them but try recalling which verb ending you need in a conversation! Practice, practice, practice, Rojelio, the school’s director, tells me. So I am taking a couple weeks off to talk to Mexicans. One of my Spanish teachers says Miles Davis is his favorite jazz musician. He says it is very difficult finding jazz music here so I burned some CD’s of Miles and John Coltrane who he had never heard of. Will be interesting to get his reaction.

I am having the brakes checked on my car. Coming down out of the Sierra Norte a few weeks ago the brakes got hot and my foot hit the floor-board! Next, an appointment to have my teeth cleaned. Trying to get ahold of Josh and Amy in Beijing…and check up on Doug in Oregon. Greg usually returns my calls.

Finally found the right office to inquire about my car having to cross the border at six months. With Ana’s translating help I found out I don’t have to go to Guatemala by Feb 2 as I thought…as long as I have an FM3 year long visa I am ok. Still would like to drive through Chiapas to Guatemala but at least i can do it in my own time. An old friend is threatening to come visit but will believe it when I see it.

We don’t have TV, so often in the evenings when Oscar is in bed, Ana and Steve come over to watch movies with me on my 20″ flat screen that i finally got a connector for. “Does it have English subtitles,” I ask the kid on the street selling bootleg movies for $1.50 each. Oh, yes, he says with great certainty. So yesterday I slide the DVD of “Volver” into the computer and guess what…no English subtitles. Was excited to watch “Little Miss Sunshine” again and for Ana to see it. Dubbed voices! Won’t due having Robert Duvall “speaking” in Spanish! Most of these movies have been made with hand-held camcorders pointed at a movie screen and the audio is terrible. Then there is the problem of opening a case and the movie you thought you purchased is a different one altogether! I can rent legitimate movies at a rental store if I can figure out which titles go with which movies. They retitle movies in Spanish that often have little to do with the commercial title so you have to decipher the Spanish description and look at the names of actors to guess which movie you are renting. “Children of Man” has been renamed an unrecognizable “Sons Of the Men” (Hijos de los Hombres) which is a whole different connotation. “Pointe Blank” becomes “Punto de Quiebra.” Fine distinctions are difficult to translate into Spanish and the same goes for Spanish into English.

Then there is the almost daily fireworks. Yesterday, Sunday, fireworks at 5:30am. What’s the deal I ask Ana. St. Thomas Day she said. Oh.

In the meantime the daily news in the Noticias and La Jornada is not good. Since the APPO was driven out of Oaxaca City, it appears that the Governor’s battle has been moved to the pueblos around the state. It has been reported that about 250 schools are engaged in physical (and sometimes gun) battles over which teachers to allow in their classrooms, a fight involving the CCL, Section 22, Section 59, parents, PRI, etc. While the teachers were on strike, other people, often without credentials, were hired in some schools to take their places. Now there is disagreement as to which teachers should continue teaching. 59 and CCL are the anti-APPO forces.
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Abuses In Oaxaca Go To The Hague

From Prena Latina
Outrageous actovities by Gov. Ulises Ruiz against the Oaxaca social movement will be denounced at The Hague International Court, leaders of the Democratic Revolution Party (PRD) said Wednesday.

PRD deputies at the First National Forum for the Defense of Oaxaca announced they will present the accusations the next week since there are elements to establish principles of crimes against humanity.

They want international judgement on the situation in that southern Mexican state and have summoned 40 witnesses.

Tuesday, attendees at the event heard testimonies of mistreatments, insults, death threats, unhealthy conditions and sexual abuse against those detained on Nov 25 by the Federal Police.

The forum gathers social activists, leaders of non governmental bodies, deputies, senators, relatives of political prisoners, ex-convicts, union representatives and members of the Popular Assembly of the Peoples of Oaxaca.

New Year’s In Las Vegas

Went to Las Vegas to spend a week with my son Greg over New Year’s. Greg and I went to bed New Years Eve at 10:30…he got called in at 1:30am for an emergency…a four year old had gotten bit on the face by the family pet Dachsund. The dog was sleeping and when the child leaned over to kiss it the dog became alarmed and bit him. Sad. Then Greg had to get up the next day at 5am to work again. New Years Day, Greg had a bunch of friends over to eat pizza and watch a Bowl game. I felt like I had entered a time warp after being in Oaxaca.
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Greg in the brown shirt on the couch

Now it’s weird being back…from one galaxy to another and back again! Plane left 1am on the 5th so getting here at 11am left me pretty frazzled. Really enjoyed Greg and his friends…so high energy! But relief to get back where things are slower. Didn’t even go to one casino. They just leave me feeling vacuous. Just hung around his house…wallowing in luxury and convenience. Toilet seat didn’t even slip around when I sat down. Did some computer parts shopping…got a strobe light for my video camera…missed filming some things here over Christmas because I didn’t have one. And got a connector for my 20 inch flat screen. Now can watch movies and not lose my eyesight. Greg now has my desktop G5…just couldn’t bring it down here on the plane…plane from Houston to Oaxaca is one of those tiny two seats on one side and one seat on the other configurations…tiny overhead. Cooked some nice meals for Greg and his friend Mike who is staying with Greg until Mike lands a job…much to their delight…but mostly stuff I missed eating myself..like rack of lamb!

Have been burning and uploading videos of the last seven months of the teacher strike here. And videos of fiestas and parties…all can be accessed on “My Links” in the column on the right hand side of this web page.

Disconnect In Oaxaca

Xochitl’s accounts show the disconnect between the low level of frustration, anxiety and aggression in Oaxaca, that is just below the surface, but invisible to the passerby tourists. I have heard that everything is fine and back to normal in Oaxaca, the Club Elefante is back open and people are partying again. This was written by a woman physician from Philadelphia describing her experience with two companions this month while the government was busy painting over the graffiti all over the city.

Dear friends and family,

After about a week of traveling around Mexico, on the run after our arrest, we returned to Oaxaca for a few days before leaving the country. It was a beguiling, heart-wrenching and stressful time.
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What’s Up With Oaxaca Now?

Blog
Marc Lacey, The New York Times, 28.12.06
December 28

Oaxaca: Painting Over Signs of Strife to Tidy Up for the Tourists
There is a new smell in the air here, competing with the aroma of mole sauce that routinely wafts through Oaxaca. It is the smell of paint fumes.

Work crews are everywhere, retouching the colonial facades that give Oaxaca its charm and draw tens of thousands of visitors a year. But in this politically charged city in southern Mexico, where protesting is as much a part of the culture as the distinctive cuisine, even the cleanup is causing arguments.

Just weeks ago, Oaxaca was a wreck. Graffiti marred its buildings. Burned-out vehicles blocked its roads. Angry protesters confronted riot-equipped police officers around the charming central square.

The protests, which began with teachers seeking a pay raise but grew to include an array of leftist groups and indigenous organizations, are continuing sporadically, but officials have begun trying to scrub away the evidence of what occurred.

Not everybody agrees on the best approach.
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Christmas Season

The Christmas season begins with the celebration of Our Lady of Guadalupe on December 12 and continues until January 6…the Day of the Three Kings when presents are opened.

The Feast of Our Lady of Guadalupe (Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe or Virgen de Guadalupe) commemorates the traditional account of her appearances to Juan Diego Cuauhtlatoatzin on the hill of Tepeyac near Mexico City from December 9 through December 12, 1531. It is Mexico’s most popular religious and cultural image: Nobel laureate Octavio Paz wrote in 1974 that “the Mexican people, after more than two centuries of experiments, have faith only in the Virgin of Guadalupe and the National Lottery!” On Guadalupe Feast Day people wait in line for hours to enter a church and kiss the foot of the Virgin. Little children are dressed up like the indigenous Indian children to whom the Virgin appeared.

During the Christmas season there is music, dancing and expositions of all kinds in the Zocalo and all around the Centro. One evening there were three music groups going all at once in the Zocalo including a Calenda with traditional indigenous dances in one corner in front of the Cathedral and a stage full of dancers demonstrating modern Mexican dance styles in another corner. A trio of flutes played indigenous folk music in the middle! And that’s not counting the guitarist and singer in one of the cafes and the poor roving singer with long black coat who sings a horrible loud version of “Oaxaca Oaxaca” and then expects you to give him money for your trouble!
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Village of Benito Juarez

Last week Ana, Steve and their 3 year old Oscar and I drove to Tlacalula and then west on a winding road high in the Sierra del Norte to the tiny village of Benito Juarez. I parked the car near an intersection where a pick-up was parked in front of us on the road. Along comes a truck and smacks right into the back of the pickup…just didn’t stop! Broke the taillight and dented the pickup…but no one got angry…in fact they just chuckled and looked at the rear of the pickup and took off again. I was amazed how different this scene would have been in the States.

After walking around and taking pictures for awhile we ate freshly caught trucha (trout) stuffed with cheese and herbs at a small comedor…with hand made blue corn tortillas and bowls of hot coffee with a dash of Rompope. Then back home on a much better paved road than the one we drove up on. On the way down we picked up a child and a couple women with bags of flowers who were waiting for a bus to take them to a market at the bottom of the mountain. They gave us a beautiful flower and offered to pay for the ride. No way said Ana!

First Christmas In Oaxaca 2006

The Zocalo is lovely now with Christmas events every night. Both the teachers and the police are out of the Zocalo now.

Last night the Canadian couple, Ana and Steve and their 3 year old son Oscar, and Joe from Chicago, in the other two apartments, and I “caroled” the manager’s family in the 4th apartment. Then we set up a table and chairs in the courtyard with Rampope (a kind of alcoholic eggnog with milk and almond flavoring made by the nuns here) and chocolate, cookies and Ana’s gingerbread house. We showed slides on Joe’s laptop computer of snowy northern America and wore scarves around our necks even though it was pretty warm out at 7pm. Our singing was pretty sick…there were so few of us and Joe had to print out the words to Christmas songs because we couldn’t remember them. I tried to get some video in the dark and sing too which was pretty ridiculous. Funniest part was that Joe lined up two rows of chairs facing each other…one row for them and one row for us. As only two of us spoke Spanish that was pretty ridiculous too. I had invited my friend Max along and bought him a Santa’s hat which, with his white beard and red shirt made him look almost like Santa. But he doesn’t speak Spanish either.
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