Making Tejate

Tejate is a rich frothy drink that is famous in Oaxaca. You get hooked on it. Labor intensive, it is made with criollo corn boiled in wood ash and ground and mixed with toasted and ground mamey seeds, cacao and the flowers of a tree found only in Huayapam.

The annual Tejate Fair on April 1 in Huayapam is a huge deal with thousands coming from all around Mexico to sample Tejate and partake in the dancing, music and food and crafts tables. Late one night at Mica and Bardo’s house, they asked me if I wouldn’t show up at 9am the next morning. A local TV station was going to film Mica’s mom, Ines, a well known “Tejatera,” as she and Carmen demonstrated the laborious art of making Tejate. They wanted me to film the filming for the family.

International Driving

Don’t know if it’s just Oaxaca or maybe it’s the whole of Mexico. However, my dentist says that drivers in Oaxaca are worse than in Mexico City! But in Xalapa they were ever so polite…big fines meted out if they are not.

But you are taking your life in your hands in Oaxaca. The taxis and buses are the worst…speeding, honoring no lanes…forcing you over. No stop signs, lights, when there are lights and when they are working, are suggestions only. And then there are the “topes” or speed bumps everywhere. Never know when one is coming up unless you watch the cars ahead and hope they slow down…however, one, with drivers from Veracruz, didn’t slow down until they got to the tope. Then they stopped. Bam. Their little car could do it. My big Toyota Land Cruiser couldn’t. So I slammed right into the back of their car. Good thing no one was hurt. Good thing for insurance.

Actually I expected this…but thought I’d get side-swiped by a bus. Now I know why Mexican immigrants in the north get into so much trouble! A couple years ago in my home town in Oregon I was T-boned by an immigrant going through a red light at about 60 miles an hour…she had no insurance. No one has insurance here except the expats.

There are rules here…just not the posted ones. And heaven help you if you don’t obey them! Boils down to buses and taxis and very small cars do what they want…and that includes just about everyone. Except the gringa with the Toyota with a US license plate. Yes, I know I should have put more space between me and car in front. You get conditioned to keep close…cars, buses and taxis will try to edge into even a sliver of space forcing you over. If you leave a lot of room…say a couple car lengths you never get to where you are going because the whole city will move in front of you.

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Thailand is no better. Was rear-ended by a motorcycle there once. Today got an email from Bob who is living in Thailand: “Now if I could only learn to control my mini-rage reactions at Thai drivers,” he says.

“Earlier this week I was driving in a line of autos and a bus tried to pass the whole line of 5-6 cars. He encountered oncoming traffic and cut in front of me–not really in front more like forced me onto the shoulder.

I offered selected auditory and visual feedback. (Had to laugh because the same thing happens here in Mexico!)

But the curious cultural phenomena is that I was the heavy in that I lost my cool. But driving is very unsafe here–most trips (even to the market) produce an anxiety or at least an edge of apprehension. And the Thais cannot park. It is humerous to watch them attempt a parallel park, most often most of the car is left somewhere out on the street. And I have two significant dings being clipped me while I was parked. Oh well…..” 

I think I detect a note of Thai-speak in that syntax.

Arrazola & Zaachila

Charly and I took the long way around to Arrazola about 10 miles south of Oaxaca City where copal wood Alebrijas are made…the most famous craft in Oaxaca. Most of the pieces are carved out of one piece of wood with crude knives…with maybe some wings or a snake or a tongue attached.
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The large ones like this cost several hundred dollars.

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My favorites were the little geckos for $6 that you can arrange crawling up and down your walls.
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On wednesday we went to Zaachila thinking it was market day. Nope…it’s thursday. That will have to wait for another time. But the tejate was great.

God Help Oaxaca

On April 11, in a speech memorializing the 88th anniversary of the death of Mexican hero Emiliano Zapata, a leader of the teachers union, Pedro Matias affirmed that the month of May 2007 will bring a series of mobilizations which can include work stoppages at intervals, marches, encampments, and the blocking of public offices on up to a general labor strike, to demand the departure of Governor Ulises Ruiz, freedom for the political prisoners, cancellation of arrest orders and to achieve true justice to make a reality the ideals of Emiliano Zapata.” He said “this is the only way that remains for the people (to fight) against the repression, the impositions, the sacking and the pillage by the state and federal governments.”

I don’t know how long this can go on without even more of a backlash than there already is. As my dentist said, he expects another teacher strike but he doesn’t know if Oaxaca can “resist” another long siege like the last one that lasted 8 months.

A meeting scheduled for April 18 with the federal government is not considered sufficient because the agreements that they signed on October 27, 2006, have not been completely fulfilled. Seven months after signing this agreement, demands such as the rezonification for cost of living and assistance to education, the freedom for the political prisoners and the cancellation of arrest orders against the participants in the popular movement are still pending. And people are still being arrested and disappeared.

After saying that they have had 27 years of struggle and they are not going to renounce the constitutional right to mobilize, the speaker repeated that the state and federal government have had sufficient time to sort out the problems but they have not wanted to do so.”

Anniversary of Death Of Zapata Today

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Emiliano Zapata (August 8, 1879 – April 10, 1919) was born to Gabriel Zapata and Cleofas Salazar in the small central state of Morelos, in the village of Anenecuilco (modern-day Ayala municipality). He was of mixed Spanish and indigenous ancestry. He spoke the indigenous language Nahuatl and was recognized as a leading figure of the largely indigenous Nahua community of Anenecuilco.

A former sharecropper, Zapata became involved in struggles for the rights of the Indians of Morelos. When unrest finally broke out resulting in the Mexican Revolution, Zapata quickly took an important role, becoming the general of a guerrila army that formed in Morelos – the Ejército Libertador del Sur (Liberation Army of the South). Joining forces with Pancho Villa and others to fight the government of Porfirio Diaz, Zapata supported agrarian reform and land redistribution. His rallying cry was “Land And Freedom” (Tierra Y Libertad) sometimes translated as “Land And Justice.”

Though Diaz was defeated, Zapata continued to resist subsequent government leaders. He was ambushed and shot by Mexican troops on April 10 1919.

Zapata remains a folk hero in Mexico, where his name has often been invoked by rebels like the Zapatista Subcommander Marcos. He is often credited with the phrase “It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees” and graffiti to this effect was often seen on buildings in Oaxaca during the teacher strike. However it is believed that the saying originated with Jose Marti, a leader of the Cuban revolutionary movement. T-shirts with Zapata’s image abound in Oaxaca markets.

There is another march in Oaxaca City today honoring Zapata with all the usual demands.

AP Correspondent Romero Fired But Damage Done

Those of us who have been living here through the teacher strike have been yelling our heads off about the misreporting of Rebeca Romero on the Associated Press Wire Service that were picked up by local media throughout the United States. Turns out she apparently had a conflict of interest.

Romero’s reporting did damage to tourism here by implying that the streets of Oaxaca were running with blood. The AP said it fired her for her reporting on Oaxaca.

Tranquilo Oaxaca?

On Monday morning March 26, I went to my dentist appointment. The dentist was 45 minutes late. She explained there was a taxi strike and she had had to walk to work. The dust in this country is unbelievable and if I wash it myself with a pan of water I have to get on a ladder to reach the roof of the Land Cruiser. So I drove to the Periferico where I knew there to be an automatic car wash. But when I got to the big intersection at the Pemex station, the road was blocked with at least 50 taxis. So couldn’t come back down the same street to get back home. Had to turn right and follow a slow snaking line of cars around neighborhood after neighborhood for an hour to find a way back.
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Dual Pricing

Found a hilarious travel article on Bootnall today about the luxury tax…or dual pricing for foreigners as it is called:

The Luxury Tax – Asia, Europe, South America
By: Adam Jeffries Schwartz
The following is a guide to how the luxury tax is levied, worldwide.

ASIA
China has the highest tax in the region! Charging a hundred times the regular price is typical. If you negotiate at all, they will stand two inches in front of your face, and scream You PAY, you PAY NOW.

Note: Exactly!!!
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Atenco Foreshadowed Oaxaca

A brutal repression and massacre of resistors by federal and state police in the small city of Atenco, 15 miles south of Mexico City, in May of 2006, foreshadowed the repression that was to follow June through November 2006 in Oaxaca. Government forces were attempting to crack down on some flower vendors that they assumed were associated with activists demonstrating against government acquisition of communal land for an airport. A “>video on YouTube is the best (graphic) depiction and explanation by analysts and historians that I have seen so far…with English subtitles…of the machinations the government has historically used in Mexico:

A Mexican-American friend who was a student in 1968 in Guadalajara, told me that when students were demonstrating in the soccer stadium in Mexico City , police snipers killed some soldiers to make it look like the students had done the shooting. Immediately, police opened fire on the students…killing hundreds.

In July 1975 the army evicted squatters from a section of Oaxaca City, herded them into buses and imprisoned them overnight while what remained behind was burned. According to Murphy and Stepick in Social Inequality in Oaxaca…a History of Resistance and Change 1991 “the state director of the federal public works agency masterminded the invasion in order to increase his political power by recruiting support among the urban masses (against the demands of the poor). The director’s plan had been to convince the owner of a large tract of land to relinquish a portion of it in exchange for the introduction of streets and water on the remainder of his extensive holdings. The agency’s director used university students with ties to the Communist Youth Party as intermediaries to implement the plan.”

Sounds familiar. A plan sure of alienating the middle class from the dissenters.