Chiang Mai Felt Like Home?

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Have been here three weeks and Chiang Mai did feel like home for awhile…just long enough to get oriented and find the good places to eat. I spent all afternoon today in my room researching Mexico on the web and then decided to go out for supper. For about 10 seconds I was completely disoriented…sights, sounds, smells…all different than what was in my head…and added to that was the haze in the air that obscured the sight of anything more than 600 yards ahead. “Slash and burn,” Lonely Planet says. Reminded me of Springfield Oregon in the fall when farmers burn their seed fields.

For excellent western food go to The Duke’s on the other side of the river from Old Town. Tender and mild white fish stuffed with lump crab with mashed potatoes on the side. Well, it came with rice but I asked for mashed potatoes instead. And apple pie for dessert…a nice break from noodle soup! I am “im” (sp?) meaning “stuffed.” I said “arroy” (delicious) to the young waiter who looked at me like I was nuts. He had on a black t-shirt and really baggy pants. Oops, I thought…I had assumed he was a Thai or at least that he spoke Thai. Or maybe he just didn’t understand my Thai such as it is.

It’s interesting to travel alone. The other day I was having breakfast in a lovely outdoor garden setting and a 78 (looked 65) year old Dane joined me…spent an hour or so telling me his life story (Denmark seems to be considerably homophobic) and then recounted his many gay sexual exploits during his seven years in Thailand…more than I wanted to know.

A couple days later in the same restaurant I was approached by an older Brit…13 years here…who had walked the entire length of Thailand. Kind of dinggy but likable. http://www.youmetdennis.com They were both fluent in Thai and I got the feeling they didn’t often talk to English-speakers. Dennis asked me to post the words of His Majesty the King…which I did in my last blog entry. He loves the King. “It’ll rock the world,” he exclaimed. I just looked at him wondering how long it had been since he had been in Europe…or the States!

Market-Going

Tired of the Night Market for tourists, this week I walked to the Warorot Day Market…a market for the local Thais. DSC00445.JPG
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I bought delicious garlic flavored BBQ chicken for lunch with custard filled squash for dessert. Then crossing the footbridge over the Mae Ping River I walked back past upscale craft and fabric shops stopping for a mixed fruit shake at the Riverside Bar & Restaurant. There is supposed to be great live music there at night but I feel weird going by myself so I don’t.

Walkabout

Yesterday morning I walked to the Post Office around the corner and down the street and then slowly swung a wide path through the city…dawdling in used book stores, Jonesing for all the quality crafts and household items in shop windows and reading pithy doggeral on t-shirts. By 4 in the afternoon I was hot and wet with sweat as I passed an old woman in a big floppy straw hat watering off the sidewalk. She didn’t see me until after she had managed to hose my sandaled feet and my ankles…sorry, sorry she begged. Oh no, no, I laughed. “Good big,” I said as I gave her the thumbs up. Then she laughed big, tickled at my enjoyment. Sanook!

This morning, tired of my guesthouse rice soup with pork for breakfast, I walked to a nearby hotel that offered an inexpensive buffet breakfast (with heart-shaped fried eggs) and spent the morning comparing travel notes and our respective country’s politics with a young Aussie couple at the table next to mine. I recounted that a couple years ago when returning to Bangkok after a month in India I would never have guessed that it would feel like heaven in the taxi traveling into the city from the airport. They both threw their heads back with a belly-laugh…saying that is exactly how they felt a week ago when they flew in after five weeks in India! Then we all had a good laugh remembering the way Bush limply muttered that he “had never been in India before,” when what he really meant was that he had never been anywhere before!

Good-bye To Samui

On 1 March I said good-bye to my son Doug and his wife Luk and Ting Tong…their little Shimizu…and caught a Bangkok Air flight back to Bangkok (Bangkok Air built the airport on Samui so they won’t let any other company fly in there) where I then transferred to budget Air Asia to fly to Chiang Mai in the north.

They had wanted Ting Tong to sire some puppies with Mark’s female (Mark was the guy who owned the last house I stayed in) but whenever we tried to get them together Ting Tong would run and hide. “Ting Tong’s a katoey!” He’s a katoey!” Luk squealed. For those of you who don’t know, katoeys are “lady boys” or transexual Thai men who are usually more beautiful than the women themselves…tall, slender, elegant…and they are wonderful entertainers. As a point of fact one of the local hospitals has a famous surgical sex change unit occupying an entire floor. The doctor there will even do vaginal rejuvenations. Look that one up on the web! 🙂

I will miss them all. Doug and Luk would often spat and then minutes later it would all be over and I would hear giggles and “Sexy man number one Hollywood!” Then “Sexy lady number one Thailand.” David, an American builder from Michigan who owns a cafe up the street and is married to a Thai said “Oh, yes, they will spat but in a couple years it will die down…it’s usually due to language or cultural misunderstandings.”

David’s wife is an excellent cook in his open air beach-front cafe across the road from four houses he built to sell and had installed WiFi in them all…so all I had to do was drive about 600 yards up the road and sit in the cafe with my iBook laptop to check my email while drinking coffee yen (iced coffee). Or use my headphones to call my other sons, Greg and Josh, in the U.S. using Skype, free peer-to-peer telephony software developed by a Swede and an Estonian a couple years ago. (Check out “skype” on the web.) If both parties have Skype installed the calls are free. Otherwise the calls cost practically nothing. I have about $10 credit, have made more than half dozen calls for several minutes each and I still have about $8 credit remaining.

The last night on Samui we went to John’s Seafood for dinner for Luk’s 27th birthday. The upscale restaurant has about 50 tables right on the sandy beach and features a traditional Thai dancing show. During our meal, a large wedding party from Australia all took turns lighting fires under huge white cloth lanterns down by the water while making a wish. DSC00438.JPGDSC00440.JPG
The lit lanterns floated up into the night sky among the stars over the Gulf Of Siam while a singer sang “I Will Always Love You.” Enough to bring tears to the most hardened cynic. We took home the birthday cake we had brought for Luk’s birthday. Who would have had the heart to upstage a party like that? Luk called her mom on the phone and we all sang happy birthday together.
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Koh Pha Ngan

Doug Luk and I took a break from Samui and put the car on the ferry for the two hour trip north to the island of Koh Pha Ngan for a couple days. Almost no car and truck traffic, motorcycles or pot-holes=bliss! This is the island, two-thirds the size of Samui, of the legendary full-moon parties but luckily we were there only during the post-half-moon party…the southeast beaches full of 20-something Europeans in dreadlocks and a slew of Israelis. We stayed on a serene northeast beach…me in an aircon bungalow and Doug and Luk in a 300 baht fan bungalow facing the Gulf Of Siam.

A drive up to the end of the paved road landed us at sunset in a sandy beach restaurant watching the sun go down while eating fresh-caught baracuda and spicy Thai salad…and we are leaving all this on the ferry in two days?!!

Street Noodles

My favorite food in Thailand is one of the many varieties of noodle soup found on street carts. Street food is safe if you select a cart in early to mid day, when the food will be fresh, and watch to see that the broth has been boiling. There usually is a choice of wide or narrow noodles. There will be a table or two where I can sit and add ground chilis or chili oil, fish sauce or sugar (Thais put sugar in everything which is why I think Thai food appeals to Westerners) to a steaming bowl of rather sweet clear broth that I think is made with turnips. I usually request fish balls, fried ground pork or crispy pork and bean sprouts from a selection of meat and vegetables resting on shelves in a small glass case in front of the huge pot of broth. (I avoid the reddish-brown chunks in the case which my son says is congealed blood.) All for 25 baht or about 50 cents.

Lucky Luk!

I called my son Doug yesterday morning. He had just returned from the fish market on Koh Samui with a salad bowl of large fresh gung (shrimp) with heads still on for $1.60 and had cooked up a traditional Thai omelet with puk (vegetables) and prik (chilis) and steamed rice. Doug does all the cooking. Lucky Luk!

A Christmas Gift Brooklyn 2005

After rack of lamb marinated with fresh oregano, thyme, garlic and olive oil; tender gratin of baby spinach in a bechamel sauce with snow crab and east coast clams; brussel sprouts braised with bacon and deglazed with cream sherry; spaghetti squash with maple syrup, butter and cinnamon; tiny green beans with garlic and thyme; a salad with carmelized pears, shaved fresh fennel and a crumbled rare blue cheese; tiny boiled red potatoes bathed in herbs and olive oil…multiple bottles of wine and champagne, and finally Amy’s apple pie, the eight of us at Christmas dinner last night are still full this morning!

Josh and Amy arrived at our apartment Christmas morning loaded up with flowers, sacks of Christmas stocking stuffers, an “egg bake,” a family Christmas morning tradition in her family, and sacks of ingredients to be used for cooking the evening meal. This was in addition to the two huge boxes of food that Josh had ordered from http://www.freshdirect.com and had delivered to the apartment the night before!

Josh and a friend of Josh’s from Eugene Oregon, Gabe, who is also a chef here in New York City and worked with Josh when he was at the Savoy, spent the entire day preparing an incredible dinner…Josh’s Christmas gift to Bob and me. Gabe brought pink roses and a malange of rare cheeses for an appetizer. Gabe’s mother, Bonny, in town for the holidays, joined us as did Gabe’s girlfriend who brought a huge tin of cookies baked by her mother. Later, another chef who worked with Josh at the Savoy and is originally from Bend Oregon and his wife, who was at the New England Culinary Institute with Josh, came by. We toasted Oregon with three Willamette Valley Pinot Noir wines, one of which was a highly respected St. Innocent…the winemaker, Mark Vlossak, formerly a Pediatric practitioner we knew in Salem.

Josh’s restaurant, Toqueville, also has a catering business. It is not unusual for Josh and selected wait staff to provide an in-home cooked dinner for a client…usually business-oriented…costing upwards of 10 to 30 thousand dollars for parties of 10-50 people…Josh often getting as much as a $1,000 tip. Josh is proud that clients often request him personally. Fancy expense accounts. And we are in pretty fancy company!

During the conversation, the “New Yorkers” started making fun of tourists who, emerging from underground subway exits, clog mid-town sidewalks and stumble along with eyes bugged skyward…while the locals frustratingly shoulder their way forward…always in a hurry. Gabe’s bright mom, who is one of Eugene’s city councilwomen had the perfect come-back. And what about those north-bound east coast tourists who clog up the freeways at 30 miles an hour gaping at snow-capped Mt. Hood or the RV’s backing up traffic on Oregon coastal highway 101! A good laugh then!

Twelve bottles of wine and champagne later we ended the meal with a delicious flaky apple pie Amy had baked that morning.

This was the first Christmas we have spent with Josh in the last ten years. And more Christmases than that since the whole family was together…and the first Christmas in three years that we have not spent in some foreign country alone. Thank you dear Josh! Now if only we could have had our other sons Greg, who is in Las Vegas, and Doug, who lives in Thailand, with us…