The Unseen During The Olympics

Watching the Olympics in Beijing has got me to thinking about China again.  I’d like to make a point about the legacy of the damage done in the last 50 years.

You might like to read “The Corpse Walker: Real-Life Stories, China from the Bottom Up” by Liao Yiwu.

Master Deng Kuan, abbot of the Gu Temple, established in the Sui Dynasty sometime around the turn of the sixth century, was 103 when the writer Liao Yiwu met him while mountain climbing in Sichuan Province, in 2003, and Yiwu’s oral histories begin with him.

This is from a review of the book by Howard W. French, a former career foreign correspondent for the New York Times, who covered China from 2003 to 2008 and who teaches at the Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism:

We know the Anti-Rightist Campaign of the late 1950s, the party went on a nationwide witch hunt for supposed liberals, reactionaries and capitalist roaders. Relating the Chinese experience amounts to a way of averting one’s eyes from something that may seem too hard to comprehend. It also encourages a kind of blurry forgetting, a storing away of things on a high, musty shelf that has been officially encouraged by China’s leaders, who are most keen to manage this story because they have the most to lose from a more vigorous and thorough telling. Thus the famous posthumous verdict by Deng Xiaoping, who judged that Mao had been 70 percent “correct” and 30 percent wrong. Yes, Mao’s errors, like the 30 million or more deaths from starvation caused by the crash industrialization of the Great Leap Forward, were doozies, but by and large he kept the country on the right path, avers Deng Xiaoping. Deng’s past has also benefited from studious airbrushing to avoid mussing up the standard portrait of him as a kindly, strong and nearly infallible second father to the nation. His enthusiastic role in violently suppressing “rightists” in the late 1950s has been placed out of bounds by the gatekeepers who determine which subjects can be researched and which cannot.

Master Deng’s life, and almost every other oral history in Liao Yiwu’s new book, appropriately subtitled Real-Life Stories, China From the Bottom Up , gives the lie to this entire vision, making this a deeply subversive book. I do not mean the reader should expect a tract or treatise on Chinese politics. Instead, Liao casts aside the official “facts” of events and replaces them with “memories”–with the resulting contrast between the censored record and interior consciousness revealing a post-1949 China that has never stopped being a traumatic place. At their root, all of Liao’s “real-life” stories share something fundamental: a fantastic, dreamy and nightmarish quality. Each story provokes a moment’s thought about its relationship to the truth.
Read More

China’s Opening

With an unlimited budget, China’s most illustrious film director has achieved a lush multimedia feast that I cannot imagine will be surpassed anytime soon. As expected it was embedded with the political…for local consumption as much as for the world.

Images…visions…symbols…and then…mirage…illusion, the ideal…and then…if you pay attention: signs.

In Tai Chi, movement in one direction often begins with a movement in the opposite direction… perfect alignment is created as hundreds and thousands of actors move as one when they have perfect awareness of where their neighbors are…water moves gracefully away from resistance and conflict…but then soldiers march to drumming rumble…

Soldiers? At an Olympics opening?

Great propaganda, China!

19th Anniversary of Tiananmen Massacre

The world must not forget.

China’s Grief, Unearthed

NYTimes.com
June 4, 2008

By Ma Jian

FOR three days last month, China’s national flag flew at half-staff in Tiananmen Square to honor the victims of the devastating earthquake in Sichuan. It was the first time in memory that China has publicly commemorated the deaths of ordinary civilians.

Crowds were allowed to gather in the square to express sympathy for their compatriots. Despite a death toll that has risen to nearly 70,000, the earthquake has shaken the nation back to life. The Chinese people have rushed to donate blood and money and join the rescue efforts. They have rediscovered their civic responsibility and compassion.
Read More

2008 Chef Olympics

My son the chef!

abp_5253.jpgHere is a picture of me and my chefs!!

Josh says: “The two in the grey are myself on the right, chef de cuisine of “One East On Third” Restaurant in the Hilton Hotel in Beijing, and Ivan, on the left is chef de cuisine of “Elements,” another restaurant in the Hilton. In the blue in the front is Boris my pastry chef, the guy in white on the left is William, the exec sous chef, and the guy in white on the right is Jason Ong the exec chef.”

Can you guess the sports??
Enjoy
Josh

Chinese Logic

Already, one-third of China’s land mass is desert and it is losing 1500 square acres more a year to overgrazing, deforestation, urban sprawl and draught. Looking out the window of my plane from Beijing to Kunming, for the first half-hour I thought I was seeing snow. But then I realized the white was primarily in the valleys…and in what used to be terraced rice paddys. Didn’t make sense. I didn’t see a stick of wood or anything green. My god, I suddenly thought…this has all become desert! Don’t know how the few villages that could be seen below manage to grow anything to eat! Gave me the chills…like the ones you get when watching futuristic science fiction movies. As we approached Kunming for landing you could see thousands of acres of covered hothouses growing vegetables. So this is how much of China eats.

In Beijing the air seemed to be much improved this year from what I saw two years ago. But one night I woke up about 3am and looked out the window and you couldn’t see the buildings in the next block so I don’t know if China is manipulating the pollution.

Yet, President Hu goes on television to say that it is unfair for the developed countries to expect the developing “victim” countries to reduce their emissions at the same rate. China has four times more people, he says, and the developed countries have been contributing to the world’s pollution far far longer.

Don’t get the logic. My mother used to say “don’t cut off your nose to spite your face.”

On To Jinghong

Too cold to do anything in Kunming so am flying out today to Jinghong in the south of China where it is reportedly warm. Was in Jinghong in the tropical Xishuangbanna Region in December 2004 when it was much warmer than this year.  Lonely Planet says there are over 800,000 people  in Jinghong, the capitol, and the many surrounding minority villages. It will be fun to go there again. It is unusually cold in Kunming and nothing is heated…I mean nothing…not hotels…not restaurants…nothing… including my hotel room. During this unusually cold winter there is an energy crisis in China and President Hu has called on the people to conserve. But the heat pad under my bottom sheet is toasty and I can lie in bed and watch Channel TV Asia with information provided by Reuters out of Singapore…but am not sure.

Big deal on TV the last couple days is Spielberg’s resignation as artistic director of the Olympic games. President Hu (who?) says politics shouldn’t be mixed with the Olympics. But he doesn’t mention the fact that China is the biggest provider of arms to the Sudan, of course. Or that China is blocking a UN Security Council resolution against Sudan because China gets most of Sudan’s oil. Guess Spielberg et al figured it doesn’t do any good to talk nice to China and this was the only way to get it’s attention. A Chinese official says it is not China’s foreign policy to react to criticism.  BTW, China is very worried about the possibility that demonstrations will mar the games.

And then there is the case of the two spies for China that were arrested by the U.S. President Who says the accusations against China’s spying is a bunch of hooey. He didn’t say it that way of course. He says the U.S. is trying to start up the cold war again.

So it goes…

I plan on uploading pictures of Josh’s menu items when I get to a place where I can use my own computer.  He says that small groups of the Olympic committee have been meeting at the Hilton for the last four years, that during the Olympics the hotel will be 95% full with the entire Committee and that he is bracing for the walloping restaurant business.

Almost Didn’t Make The Plane To Kunming

YUqE3FCf1Hd9CjfG1qqmt0-2006171132705308.gif

Hard to believe I was in Beijing for two weeks. But you know what they say about stinking guests if they stay too long. So today I flew to Kunming in Yunnan Province in the south of China. Stewardess announced that the flight would take 3.5 hours to go 200 kilometers. I figured there was something wrong there…think she meant 2000 kilometers. Warmer than Beijing but still damn cold…39 degrees F. Had hoped for it to be warmer this far south. Might have to keep on going.

But before I could get to the plane, I had an adventure! Got out of the taxi at the airport and walked around to the back of the car to get my backpack out of the trunk. Then I’ll be damned if the driver took off like a shot with me flapping my arms, running and yelling after him in the middle of the road…to no avail. A nice taxi was coming up behind me…told me to get in…he ran the first taxi down to get him to stop. Boy…woke me up! The driver was just stupid! Didn’t even know why we were pulling him over until we got him stopped and pointed to the trunk! My rescuer kindly refused money. Travel tip: don’t get out of a taxi, if you have baggage in the trunk, until you see the driver getting out too!

I’m in the Camellia Hotel where I stayed both in 2003 and 2004. Great buffet breakfast comes with the room…$28 a night. Couple bars, internet cafe…mostly lauwai (same as gringo only it’s what the Chinese call anyone not from China). There’s a hostel here too…but mostly with twenty-somethings and I want my peace and quiet so I have my own room in the main building. Channel TV Asia is the only English language station but I get most of the world news….as if I needed it. Announcers have a British accent…think it’s operated by Reuters.

Same cafe down the street but with a different name…Chinese and western comfort food…but now with free WiFi. Around the corner is MaMa Fu’s Cafe…hot and sour noodle soups. And next door is a big noodle shop with Over The Bridge Noodle Soup…platter of meat and vegetables comes to the table and you drop the food in and it cooks in the still hot broth…indigenous Yunnan style soup.

No colorful minority peoples selling things in the street now. Guess it’s either too cold or the government has banished them.

I really like the neighborhood here…with a market nearby. A group of crazy Europeans are biking China in this cold…bicycles all parked in the street in the front of a sports clothing shop while they make repairs…older Chinese men stopping by to peer at the loony western barbarians.

Almost Lost On The Subway

This week Josh and I went to the Beijing Exhibition which is a miniature replica of the city in a huge building. Josh says they have one of these in every major city. Very well done! Then we walked through Tiananmen Square. It was full of tourists as we are still in the Chinese New Year season…one family asked to have our pictures taken with them. You know…we were a curiosity! I have had that happen before in rural China and other out-of-the-way places.

Then we were going to take the subway back to Lido…the neighborhood where Josh lives. The subway was packed of course. Josh says, “get on!” Which I did. Only there was no room for Josh! The doors closed and the train took off with Josh standing on the platform! As he receded from sight I hollered Josh! Josh! with my nose pressed against the door window! The Chinese on the train thought that was pretty funny! Stupid Laowi (foreigners)! I had just been following Josh around and had no idea where to get off. So I got off at the next stop and called Josh on the cell phone and told him where I was. What did we do before cell phones! So along comes the next train with Josh’s sweet face in the window!

2008 Olympic Venues

The two most impressive Olympic venues are the National Aquatics Center or simply the “Water Cube” and the “Bird’s Nest.”

The “Water Cube,” a palatial structure with an area of 80,000 sq meters that is white in the daytime and blue at night, was completed January 28, 2008. Underneath a pure and simple facade, this translucent building embodies a complex and unrestricted framework as well as environmentally advanced technology that has become a landmark structure.
Img214242716.jpg
Img214242533.jpg

According to the Official Olympic web site, the shapes woven within the steel framework of the “Water Cube” symbolize a membrane of water molecules…a “pure and natural beauty.” Josh says the membrane structure ‘cloth’ is made of translucent teflon. But the welding of the irregular steel framework was the most difficult part of the design and construction.

The web site goes on to say that the “designers created the steel structure of the “Water Cube” based on the so-called “bubble theory,” a somewhat controversial theory because of its many unsolvable problems. When the designers of the National Aquatics Center decided to practice the bubble theory, it drew great attention in the international architecture field. Almost all of the architects that have studied the bubble theory have come to visit the venue construction site.”

“It took only 10 months for workers to build the large-scale, irregular steel structure of the Olympic venue, which is considered a miracle in the history of world architecture.”

“The design and construction of the ‘Water Cube’ steel structure stunned the whole world,” the web site goes on to say. “The Guardian, a British newspaper, published an article calling it a masterpiece of theoretical physics.”

Leave it to the Chinese to wax ecstatic. But it IS impressive! But nowhere do the Chinese say that the architects were all from out of the country.

The “Bird’s Nest” lies adjacent to the the “Water Cube” and creates a nice design foil. At night the inside of the shell is lit up of course and the structure of the actual venue inside is beautifully illuminated. A man made “lake” in the shape of a dragon frames the building as seen blow in the model at the Beijing Exposition.

.p1040157.JPG
20080127114905357.jpg

Chinese New Year Of The Rat

Chinese New Year’s Eve Wednesday February 6 2008. Words cannot do justice to the fireworks we viewed across the city from the rooftop of the Hilton Hotel at midnight. It was so cold Josh had trouble holding a camera. It will go on every night for a week,
Josh says!